1981 Poo brown two door restore.

As per the earlier posts, the top ends now complete,happy with that.
I do have a engine shaking vibration at 1000rpm.

Curioisty after having no faith in the guy that built up this motor,add to this the dubious oil pressure and dry crank required to kick it off due to wildly out timing chain had me pulling the sump to check out the bottom end.

Here’s the rear cap and top bearing
.Attachment 178188 Attachment 178189

Not too flash,huh..

The contradiction on this build is the quality new parts used matched with seriously worn out items in critical areas!


Case in point,excellent bearings used,fortunately I had a set tucked away,so like for like.

Attachment 178190

Marked the caps, and even the nuts to ensure all went back in orientation.
Only did one at a time,as I know myself too well;)
Also good to have a decent squizz at the moving parts while in there.
Camshaft looks sweet,bores etc look great,conrods seem fine and checked they were in the correct orientation,dimples facing each other,phew!

Attachment 178191 Attachment 178192

Can the eagle eyed amongst us spot the flaw in this next pic?
This is first front cap on the crank.

Attachment 178193

It seems,my three hours of lying on the garage floor may have been worth the effort.
Yes,that front cap is facing the wrong way.
It had me doubting myself,so prised myself off concrete and checked the repair manual for the correct orientation.
Its my understanding the small rib in the centre of the cap should face forward On RH bank,rear on Left hand bank.
All the others were correct,just the front cap was backwards,and this will explain why the front shells look the way they do.I see copper..
Attachment 178194
Also being the wrong way around translates side load pressure up the conrod to the pin.
You can see the conrod sitting right across To one side,instead of sitting central on the pin as the others do.

Attachment 178195

That side load also wears the shells on one edge.Evident in the next picture with nice hint of copper starting to show,300 km…If I ever meet this builder,I’ll bring bananas!

Attachment 178196

Quote:

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Originally Posted by westy1

.................
Can the eagle eyed amongst us spot the flaw in this next pic?
This is first front cap on the crank.

Attachment 178193.......

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My first thought was the cap is missing off the end of the rod, haha.

I like your attention to detail.

Had to drop the crank in my POS with a 350 to replace the rear main seal. Every thing was stamped with numbers so I could tell it had been re coed at some stage.

Copper was showing on the main shells in places, I just torqued it all up after changing the seal and 100 thou later nothing is really different except it doesn't leak out of the rear main.

It is a Chev though, has about 700 thou on the motor since reco, 99% on gas. Chancy meet with the guy who put it in there enabled me to work it out.

I won't be replacing it with a 3.5 to 'restore the balance of the vehicle' or to somehow make it more 'valuable'.

AFAIAC it has the motor and trans it should have had in 1974.

cheers DL

The brake pedal has never returned on the spring,and
was always partially on,with associated brake lights,drag and minor vibration.

Removed the booster with some contortionist moves,4 x 9/16 bolts on interior firewall,master off and moved aside,lines still intact.

Attachment 178351 Attachment 178352


Found an original brake booster rebuild kit online,took it to a brake specialist as considered this outside my comfort zone,and was informed it would be sent away to another city,take 3 weeks,and cost between $6-800!

Who needs a comfort zone! ,adopted the Jeremy Clarkson mindset,”how hard can it be”;)

The nice thing about original old stock,especially AP Lockheed,it came with a now very grubby expanded diagram and installation notes included,nice one..

Attachment 178355 Attachment 178372

The opening sentence begins with disassemble unit! presuming one knows where to start,so just winged it and paint marked everything that looked like needing alignment for later.

Undid the metal band that ties the two halves together,now the big vacuum shell now separates away easily.
Tapped of the cap on pushrod first.
Tried to undo screws,but they’re held in with bolts behind,so that won’t work..

Attachment 178357

Pried off the inner shell leaving the inner/outer diaphragms accessible.

Attachment 178358

Remove the large nut whilst aiming unit away from children and glassware ;)
Boooiing! Actually not too bad at all,stayed on bench and just released tension,,had visions of this thing wound up like a coiled spring,funny that ;)
Very cool thick copper spring,expensive now I’d say.

Attachment 178359

This gives access to the nuts holding the valve plate on,Then pried plate off with non sharp trim tool.

Attachment 178360 Attachment 178361

That leaves the valve shaft mechanism connected on both ends,took a nano to figure out how to seperate these but couldn’t see any fixings so had to be o rings..

Attachment 178362 Attachment 178363 Attachment 178364

This exposes the valve shaft which has these interesting plate pins holding the valve shaft but being able to flex with the brake pedal..ok,how do these come out'then the sponge and top ring fell out,,ok,got it..

Attachment 178365 Attachment 178366

Inspecting the shaft you can see it has a recessed machined groove to seat these plates and a circlip to anchor it from pulling back inside the shaft,,
I’m really enjoying ripping this apart,learning it’s not that hard,and so far I’m charging myself $400 an hour ;)

Circlip removed,now shaft withdraws with some firm assistance.

Attachment 178367 Attachment 178369

There’s a note with the kit that the spring needs to pushed down the shaft ,about two inches, to sit in a Circlip groove prior install,so released this.
I gather if this circlip comes undone on the car you loose return pressure and or feel.
This wasn’t the fault on mine,but I did Dremel a deeper groove and loctite that circlip on , as while banging it around on the bench it released twice on the replacement shaft..It’s not very deep and that spring puts quite some load on the holding washer behind the circlip.

The recess down the shaft is visible in the above pics.

On closer inspection,I have no idea why my booster wasn’t returning the pedal,all I can think of was possibly a worn o ring or gunk stopping free moment of the valve shaft,most likely after 40 years.
Even if you have no rebuild kit,all the o rings are standard fare,easily replaced from an auto store,so if your booster is at fault ,it may be worth diving in,fear factor low really,to refurb what is a fascinating piece of engineering,but very basic and working on it is a dream,cool bit of kit..

The valve shaft as removed below.
Attachment 178371

Continued from above..
new vs old,, no wear visible on the old one,merely loose o rings.
rubber diaphragms all in good condition,replaced them anyway.

Attachment 178373

Reverse of install to put back together,lots of new rubber grease..
And the result?
The pedal now lines up with the clutch,returns quickly on the spring,brake lights turn off,and an extra 5-10kmh for free:)

Attachment 178375 Attachment 178376 Attachment 178377

Attachment 178378

The metric and imperial rebuild procedures are in both the Haynes manuals I've got and in the RRC WSM section I've got as a pdf if anyone needs help.

Good on you westy for having a go!

At the end of the day they are just like a mechanno set

DL

Thanks for posting the master vac rebuild pics.
It's been a very long time since I'd been inside one that I'd almost completely forgotten what they looked like.

Takes me back to the days of the venerable VH44.

Most welcome,glad it gave a flashback:)
Decent pics worth a thousand words here.
New challenges really satisfying when you get a result:)

Connected the vacuum gauge to the brake booster supply on manifold,it’s the only one available.
I know there is a non return valve in that port and may be unsuitable as a test port not being able to cushion the needle movement as a free flow port might do?
This engine does seem to have a miss somewhere.
What would be the most likely cause of the needle rising sharply then returning.
Can’t pick it up in the vid very clearly,but I do hear the engine rpm change in sync with that needle movement.
thoughts or experience of similar?

https://youtu.be/0w6Eyf0e-9I

Nice clunk going around corners,newish suspension,so tested sideways movement on the front arm bushes with a screwdriver and massive play there.
Initially thought I had a set of bushes but discovered there are two different sets made for Range Rover classics.
The earlier ones have narrower bushes without that additional inner sleeve present on the later ones.

These do not fit the bracket(bush measured 54.20mm)

Attachment 180290

Removed the old ones,courtesy of local 50 tonne press, and a quick measure to compare.
Notice the old ones have that inner sleeve also,but measured closer to Oem ,so guessing someone shaved them down to fit.
That inner sleeve not sitting proud of the elastomeric rubber as in the new ones.
Not visible,but the rubber had separated from the outer bush on both.

Attachment 180291 Attachment 180292

Left wheels on to avoid axle movement,dropped the tracking rod for access to rear hockey stick bolts,and whole thing fell out..loosey goosey.

Attachment 180293
New bolts and one side down,no more clunk,nicer connected feel in steering already.

Chasing a chronic misfire underload ,,The Rangie would semi cutout,and stumble up any incline as if starving fuel.

Visited the fuel system and renewed the fuel lines from tank to filter,new pump and installed an inline fuel pressure gauge after fuel filter,to monitor pressure to carbs.
Tank was clean as was pickup screen,lines clear so seemed fine and holding 2/2.5 psi with new pump.
Attachment 182024
Troubleshooting continued so onto ignition.
Changed ignition amp,no diff,tried another coil,checked 0.8 ohm correct for the 35dlm8 distributor.
Carbs have been rebuilt and fairly dialled in when misfire started so leaving well alone.
Driving around under light throttle no issue,gun it and the thing bucks and tacho goes mental,so returned to electrical as prime candidate.

By luck on starting this morning was head over engine bay and heard crackling around coil.
The 12v feed from the starter motor lead runs (both in seperate cable sleeves) beside the LT wires from the ignition amp ,both cable tied together as ya do..

I moved the 12v feed away from the amp wiring and crackling stopped,,aaah ok..
Fastened them away from each other,added an earth to the male spade on side of distributor and took her for a test drive..
Happy day,no rodeo present:)

Came home and adjusted timing with the strobe,refastened the clamp bolt,and wouldn’t tighten down!
There had been a slight seep of oil pooling in the timing cover top area for some time,but no visible sign of source.
Looking down to check bolt position and saw this! Bugger.
Attachment 182025
Looks like in its history someone had used excessive torque on the clamp bolt and had hairline cracked the case,and I just gave it the deathknell..
Elation one minute and despair the next,such is the life of Land Rover ownership,,haha

Sourced another cover nearby ,and am thinking it might be time to put my glad wrapped rebuilt matching numbers 3.5 in there as will be halfway there with front end off..will see:)
Attachment 182026