Thread: 1981 Poo brown two door restore.

Originally Posted by westy1

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Can the eagle eyed amongst us spot the flaw in this next pic?
This is first front cap on the crank.

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My first thought was the cap is missing off the end of the rod, haha.

I like your attention to detail.

Had to drop the crank in my POS with a 350 to replace the rear main seal. Every thing was stamped with numbers so I could tell it had been re coed at some stage.

Copper was showing on the main shells in places, I just torqued it all up after changing the seal and 100 thou later nothing is really different except it doesn't leak out of the rear main.

It is a Chev though, has about 700 thou on the motor since reco, 99% on gas. Chancy meet with the guy who put it in there enabled me to work it out.

I won't be replacing it with a 3.5 to 'restore the balance of the vehicle' or to somehow make it more 'valuable'.

AFAIAC it has the motor and trans it should have had in 1974.

cheers DL

The brake pedal has never returned on the spring,and
was always partially on,with associated brake lights,drag and minor vibration.

Removed the booster with some contortionist moves,4 x 9/16 bolts on interior firewall,master off and moved aside,lines still intact.

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Found an original brake booster rebuild kit online,took it to a brake specialist as considered this outside my comfort zone,and was informed it would be sent away to another city,take 3 weeks,and cost between $6-800!

Who needs a comfort zone! ,adopted the Jeremy Clarkson mindset,”how hard can it be”

The nice thing about original old stock,especially AP Lockheed,it came with a now very grubby expanded diagram and installation notes included,nice one..

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The opening sentence begins with disassemble unit! presuming one knows where to start,so just winged it and paint marked everything that looked like needing alignment for later.

Undid the metal band that ties the two halves together,now the big vacuum shell now separates away easily.
Tapped of the cap on pushrod first.
Tried to undo screws,but they’re held in with bolts behind,so that won’t work..

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Pried off the inner shell leaving the inner/outer diaphragms accessible.

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Remove the large nut whilst aiming unit away from children and glassware
Boooiing! Actually not too bad at all,stayed on bench and just released tension,,had visions of this thing wound up like a coiled spring,funny that
Very cool thick copper spring,expensive now I’d say.

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This gives access to the nuts holding the valve plate on,Then pried plate off with non sharp trim tool.

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That leaves the valve shaft mechanism connected on both ends,took a nano to figure out how to seperate these but couldn’t see any fixings so had to be o rings..

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This exposes the valve shaft which has these interesting plate pins holding the valve shaft but being able to flex with the brake pedal..ok,how do these come out'then the sponge and top ring fell out,,ok,got it..

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Inspecting the shaft you can see it has a recessed machined groove to seat these plates and a circlip to anchor it from pulling back inside the shaft,,
I’m really enjoying ripping this apart,learning it’s not that hard,and so far I’m charging myself $400 an hour

Circlip removed,now shaft withdraws with some firm assistance.

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There’s a note with the kit that the spring needs to pushed down the shaft ,about two inches, to sit in a Circlip groove prior install,so released this.
I gather if this circlip comes undone on the car you loose return pressure and or feel.
This wasn’t the fault on mine,but I did Dremel a deeper groove and loctite that circlip on , as while banging it around on the bench it released twice on the replacement shaft..It’s not very deep and that spring puts quite some load on the holding washer behind the circlip.

The recess down the shaft is visible in the above pics.

On closer inspection,I have no idea why my booster wasn’t returning the pedal,all I can think of was possibly a worn o ring or gunk stopping free moment of the valve shaft,most likely after 40 years.
Even if you have no rebuild kit,all the o rings are standard fare,easily replaced from an auto store,so if your booster is at fault ,it may be worth diving in,fear factor low really,to refurb what is a fascinating piece of engineering,but very basic and working on it is a dream,cool bit of kit..

The valve shaft as removed below.
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Continued from above..
new vs old,, no wear visible on the old one,merely loose o rings.
rubber diaphragms all in good condition,replaced them anyway.

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Reverse of install to put back together,lots of new rubber grease..
And the result?
The pedal now lines up with the clutch,returns quickly on the spring,brake lights turn off,and an extra 5-10kmh for free

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The metric and imperial rebuild procedures are in both the Haynes manuals I've got and in the RRC WSM section I've got as a pdf if anyone needs help.

Good on you westy for having a go!

At the end of the day they are just like a mechanno set

DL

Thanks for posting the master vac rebuild pics.
It's been a very long time since I'd been inside one that I'd almost completely forgotten what they looked like.

Takes me back to the days of the venerable VH44.

Most welcome,glad it gave a flashback
Decent pics worth a thousand words here.
New challenges really satisfying when you get a result

Connected the vacuum gauge to the brake booster supply on manifold,it’s the only one available.
I know there is a non return valve in that port and may be unsuitable as a test port not being able to cushion the needle movement as a free flow port might do?
This engine does seem to have a miss somewhere.
What would be the most likely cause of the needle rising sharply then returning.
Can’t pick it up in the vid very clearly,but I do hear the engine rpm change in sync with that needle movement.
thoughts or experience of similar?

Nice clunk going around corners,newish suspension,so tested sideways movement on the front arm bushes with a screwdriver and massive play there.
Initially thought I had a set of bushes but discovered there are two different sets made for Range Rover classics.
The earlier ones have narrower bushes without that additional inner sleeve present on the later ones.

These do not fit the bracket(bush measured 54.20mm)

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Removed the old ones,courtesy of local 50 tonne press, and a quick measure to compare.
Notice the old ones have that inner sleeve also,but measured closer to Oem ,so guessing someone shaved them down to fit.
That inner sleeve not sitting proud of the elastomeric rubber as in the new ones.
Not visible,but the rubber had separated from the outer bush on both.

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Left wheels on to avoid axle movement,dropped the tracking rod for access to rear hockey stick bolts,and whole thing fell out..loosey goosey.

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New bolts and one side down,no more clunk,nicer connected feel in steering already.