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Thread: Philís 82 Range Rover Classic

  1. #51
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    Hi David, no I didnít use Castcraft or similar.
    I did a spark test to compare the bottom bracket to rolled steel and it appeared to be the same, so I assumed the bottom bracket is cast steel and not cast iron.
    In the past (for an experiment) I tried welding cast iron with normal MIG wire and it was virtually impossible to get a bond. However, the bottom bracket behaved the same as the steel spacer piece I was inserting, so I am confident my spark test was accurate.

    Perhaps with the lift, you could do the opposite of what I have done and shorten the bottom bracket so that the hydromat will retain the suspension at the lifted height when loaded !

    Phil

  2. #52
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    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    I've run out of spare brackets.

    DL

  3. #53
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    Upper tailgate lock

    When I purchased my RRC there was no key for the upper tailgate.
    Fortunately it was unlocked
    So I dismantled it and removed the barrel to find out the number stamped on it.
    I had a spare Morris Mini door key and it fitted in the lock barrel but was of the wrong code but at least I then knew the key format.
    I was then able to order a pair of keys from these folk on eBay for $28.50 including postage.
    16A4D4C0-BD10-4119-BA21-3FE6EA3A7609.jpg

    The pair of keys arrived a few days later and fitted perfectly.
    I reassembled the lock to the upper tailgate and bingo.
    6681DB84-F2A5-417E-9B58-9D9837C3A9D8.jpg

    Another (small) job completed

  4. #54
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    Door keys

    My RRC has an ignition key but it must have a replacement lock as the key does not fit the door locks
    So I removed the passenger side lock assembly and took the barrel to a local locksmith to have a key cut.
    2 keys for $40 sounds pretty reasonable to me.
    While I had it all apart I drilled a hole in the retaining clip so that the next time I need to remove the lock I can pull the clip down with a piece of wire with a bend in the end. I had a hell of a time getting it off originally. Does anyone have any special tricks to removing them as I still need to remove the drivers side lock.
    BB025065-2D01-4824-AADD-7BF57C492981.jpg

    Regards
    Phil

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil 850 View Post
    When I purchased my RRC there was no key for the upper tailgate.
    Fortunately it was unlocked
    So I dismantled it and removed the barrel to find out the number stamped on it.
    I had a spare Morris Mini door key and it fitted in the lock barrel but was of the wrong code but at least I then knew the key format.
    I was then able to order a pair of keys from these folk on eBay for $28.50 including postage.
    16A4D4C0-BD10-4119-BA21-3FE6EA3A7609.jpg

    The pair of keys arrived a few days later and fitted perfectly.
    I reassembled the lock to the upper tailgate and bingo.
    6681DB84-F2A5-417E-9B58-9D9837C3A9D8.jpg

    Another (small) job completed
    Thanks for this info Phil. I've now been able to get replacement keys for mine!

    Trish at e-locksmith https://www.ebay.com.au/str/elocksmi...mis&media=COPY was very helpful and I would thoroughly recommend.
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover - coming out of the shed.
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
    http://www.monarchist.org.au/

  6. #56
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    Exhaust headers

    I bought a set of Hi-Tech exhaust headers that they make specifically for fitting a P76 V8 into a RRC.
    As I had some issues with the header flanges not easily fitting onto the exhaust manifold studs (fixed with the gentle use of a die grinder on a couple of the flange holes) I thought I would check the alignment of the exhaust ports to the header flanges.
    Cylinder head.
    7C44B1CE-38FF-427A-88C4-C6E8472779B0.jpg

    I then cut out a piece of fibreglass sheet to match the head ports.
    DB140D58-2A3D-4DE8-B38E-F3DFDB187FC5.jpg

    I then laid this on the header flanges by lining up the bolt holes.
    Most ports lined up quite well but one in particular overlapped the template by about 5 mm. Second port from the right.
    4F14E822-60E1-464D-8DC4-8B2A26C27160.jpg

    I scribed around the template and then ground out the header flange to the scribed line.
    FD193CB5-686F-4473-92F0-38EC8EAA6482.jpg

    The offending flanges with the template removed.
    C322BD60-BB1C-49C6-BB7C-9877572F374E.jpg

    I might grind rind them all about 1 mm greater than the template just to ensure that they donít interfere with exhaust flow once installed.

  7. #57
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    Sloppy transfer case lever

    My LT230 transfer case lever uses the entire width and length of the housing to lock/unlock the diff and change from high to low range.
    The main culprit (other than general wear) is the hole for the clevis pin in the high/low range arm is ~10 mm and the clevis pin is ~8 mm.
    F1648EC3-9E99-4BDB-B22B-886CED3704DA.jpg

    I bought some 10 mm OD x 8 mm ID tube and swaged it into the arm.
    A2E41A17-ECA9-480C-8643-786DFEAF7A0C.jpg

    It made a significant differance
    I then did the same for the diff lock lever pivot.
    CC5AC8A8-7777-4559-B9CC-9CD8BF0AF0AF.jpg

    It it all feels much more positive now.
    Taking the wear out of the rest of the system will be far more tedious, so this will do for now.

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