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Thread: Phil’s 82 Range Rover Classic

  1. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuRR80 View Post
    Phil, I may have missed it, but what type of sheet metal are you using for the repairs and what gauge?
    Hi Stu
    I use 1.2 mm mild steel sheet that I bought from a sheet metal shop for another project that also used a fair bit of custom fabrication.
    The best that I could measure was that the pillars and floor of the RRC are also 1.2 mm but I don’t know what grade of material.
    My mild steel is way stronger than the previous rust and dodgy welding that I’m replacing.

    Phil

  2. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil 850 View Post
    Hi Stu
    I use 1.2 mm mild steel sheet that I bought from a sheet metal shop for another project that also used a fair bit of custom fabrication.
    The best that I could measure was that the pillars and floor of the RRC are also 1.2 mm but I don’t know what grade of material.
    My mild steel is way stronger than the previous rust and dodgy welding that I’m replacing.

    Phil
    Thanks Phil
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

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  3. #113
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    More corrosion fixed

    On the left hand body side that I repaired the A pillar on also had some corrosion where the side window mounts.
    E11BEE39-0467-445F-9E20-50A681004830.jpg BDE16E7E-AB72-497A-A286-80420EC911BE.jpg
    The first phot shows significant corrosion around the mounting hole while the second one shows a corrosion hole at the bend in the window rail.
    While many may know about using copper as a backing bar others may not.
    As you cannot mild steel weld to copper, it allows you to place a piece of copper on the back of the panel and then weld “onto it” to fill holes and along joints without fear of blowing a hole.
    E9C6F3B2-685A-4158-861B-D7CD8B2B82D3.jpg Copper backing bar installed.
    7C7BBFD0-C6BB-4283-96DA-FE4F7324F1C2.jpg Repair patch sitting on copper backing.
    ECB68C00-0FBF-411D-8366-0AFB278A3270.jpg 6704BE8C-3B28-4011-B164-F69006F66AE8.jpg
    These are the first two photos after welding and dressing.
    Hope this is of some assistance.

    Regards
    Phil

  4. #114
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    The trick is to "find" a suitably thick large piece of copper to be the heatsink - and then keep it hidden from casual eyes.

    The thieving scrappies will probably already have your IP address and are looking to come around to permanently 'borrow' your shiny copper stuff.

    Keep it hidden, Keep it safe.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  5. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    The trick is to "find" a suitably thick large piece of copper to be the heatsink - and then keep it hidden from casual eyes.

    The thieving scrappies will probably already have your IP address and are looking to come around to permanently 'borrow' your shiny copper stuff.

    Keep it hidden, Keep it safe.
    Actually, I cut about 60 mm off the end of a 3/4” copper tube (house hold plumbing) and slit it down it’s length, flattened it out and then folded it to 90 degrees.
    It’s only about 1.2 mm thick.

    Phil

  6. #116
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    Back in the day when they were renovating the telephone exchanges (upgrades) prior to nbn the copper DC busbars would sometimes be removed to make way for other equipment. Those busbars were hot property and it wasn't long before everyone cottoned on.
    Some of them were 2x2, some 2x4 in the bigger exchanges. usually in 6 or 8 foot lengths. Heavy.
    Some people made a lot of money on the side (contractors/scrappies) doing those "renovations"

    I picked up a smaller offcut piece from a scrappie years ago, for $50, then promptly lost it in a house move. Unsure how that happened.
    Same size piece would probably sell now for 10x what I paid back then. Entrepreneurship or thievery?... who can really say- it's a fine line.

    Resource boom are words that scrappies love to hear.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  7. #117
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    Fuel gauge sender problem

    The fuel gauge didn’t read correctly.
    When the tank was empty it shows 1/4 and of course the low fuel warning light didn’t come on.
    As I want to paint as much of the chassis that I can access during the build I decided to remove the fuel tank.
    The bottom of the tank near the drain plug has a dent and some sealer.
    A709A51E-1525-4234-83FD-A4A79DD29180.jpg
    I assumed that there must be a split in the tank from the damage but after cleaning the sealer off there were 2 pin holes.
    3ED66F83-5FF6-416B-9622-BB63B1CC0677.jpg
    This looked more like a corrosion problem than damage and the fuel I drained out was very brown.
    I then removed the sender unit.
    65F8F1E2-A19C-4448-86CC-6882ACD34941.jpg
    Float arm rusted solid.
    7673600F-863B-4722-9E51-C12FC5076CED.jpg E6F3EAD1-198C-4323-A151-E796DBD2946E.jpg
    This is what the inside of the tank looks like.
    Further to this, both of the mounting brackets that are soldered to the tank are loose.
    Considering the repair and cleaning necessary I think I’ll just buy a new tank and sender.

    Phil

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