Phil's 82 Range Rover Classic

Today I was purchasing some bolts and they had a stand with Loctite products.
I had done some research and found that SF 7601 or SF 790 will soften red Loctite.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/au/...eadlocker.html
While discussing this with the sales person, another customer suggested using a bar and the impact hex driver is more likely to undo the cap screws as he had previously destroyed a couple of impact hex drivers doing the same thing.
The only reason I hadn’t tried to manually undo them was that if the hex drive slips or moves at an angle it may damage the hex in the soc head and then you are really buggered.
Anyway, I took his advice and they came out without “too” much effort thankfully.

Now that the adaptor has been removed I need to fit the clutch input shaft spigot bearing.
This is a sintered bronze Bush, and in the past I was taught to soak them in oil for a few hours, then wipe off the excess and install them.
However, the manual does not mention lubrication at all.
Attachment 191803

What have others done, lube or no lube ?

Phil

The person that I bought the manual gearbox from also provided the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel.
After cleaning the face of the crankshaft I placed the flywheel in position and aligned all of the bolt holes.
However, I was able to rock the flywheel on the face of the crankshaft and suspected that the flywheel was not seating correctly.
I removed the flywheel and here is a photo of the face of the crankshaft.
Attachment 191869
As one would expect, there is a small fillet radius between the face of the crankshaft and the locating spigot.
This is a photo of the mating face of the flywheel which shows a small chamfer.
Attachment 191870
By comparison, this is the flexplate adaptor that I took off and it has a significantly larger chamfer.
Attachment 191871
Side by side for easier comparison.
Attachment 191872
I think my only choice is to get the die grinder and carefully remove a little more material from the flywheel to increase the chamfer.

Has anyone had a similar experience.

Phil

So, I ground a small chamfer on the back of the flywheel to clear the spigot fillet.
Attachment 191919
It’s not quite as bid as the auto adaptor but the flywheel now sits flat on the crankshaft flange.
Now to fit the clutch and pressure plate and then the gearbox.

Phil

Is it my imagination or are there two extra holes in the crank that look like they had dowels to correctly align everything originally.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oka374

Is it my imagination or are there two extra holes in the crank that look like they had dowels to correctly align everything originally.

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Yes, the crankshaft does have two dowel holes but neither the auto adaptor nor the manual flywheel have dowel holes.
The maintenance manual states that once the flywheel is installed, to turn the flywheel against the direction of rotation of the engine and then torque up the mounting bolts.
This presumably eliminates any potential “slack” in the drive line.
However, we should not be relying on the shear strength of the bolts but the friction grip of the flywheel to the crankshaft.

Phil

regarding the spigot bush.

Depending on the material it may be solid brass or sintered material - known as oilite - which is a sintered bronze that needs to be soaked in oil for about 24 hours before use

If the material inner surface looks like a hundred thousand tiny microscopic balls squeezed together, then it's oilite. if not, chances are it's a solid bush and as such would require no pre-soaking.
Never hurts to put a tiny bit of high temp wheel bearing grease on the snout of the inout shaft and a fine smear on the bush as well before assembly if it's a solid bush.

Having installed the clutch and pressure plate I decided to fit a couple of guide pins to assist with the gearbox installation.
Unfortunately I didn’t take and photos before hand, but I fitted a 4” long bolt with the head cut off to each side of the engine block.
Attachment 192001
This ensured that the gearbox input shaft had no choice but to go inside the clutch spline (with a bit of rotation of the output flange), and with a bit of jiggling up and down the shaft went into the pilot bearing.
Now all bolted up [smilebigeye]
Attachment 192002

Phil

I have tidied up the transmission tunnel from what was a LT95 and then a 727 Torqueflite to now clear the LT77 gear lever and high/low gear lever.
However, what rubber boot should be fitted to the LT77 gear lever to prevent the ingress of contaminants.
Attachment 192152

Regards
Phil

I have found this Land Rover Parts - INNER GAITER - GEAR LEVER - 5 SPEED LT77+R380 (Discovery 1 from KA034314) and could either cut out the section for the gear lever, or make an adaptor for the transmission tunnel and fit the entire gaiter, therefore completely sealing the transmission tunnel to the outside environment.

I am planning to make a custom console anyway, so it could be tailored to suit the gaiter.

Any other suggestions ?

Phil

Silicon Dektites which are used for sealing around chimney's, vents and pipes in building roofs work really well as gearstick boots.
I've had one on the Oka for about ten years now, it's a 100mm one trimmed to suit.
They come in a large selection of sizes and the base has a soft aluminium flange that can be drilled and cut to suit and then you just snip the top off at the required diameter to suit the actual gearstick diameter. They are really flexible, aren't worried by heat and oil and are available at most hardware stores or ebay/online. I bought a pack of ten at the time and still have a few left as they don't seem to wear out, I've given quite a few away over the years.