Phil's 82 Range Rover Classic

The following statement is in reference to the rover 3.9 as fitted to my vehicle:


Some time ago, (years) I contacted Cost Effective Maintenance in Sumner Park Brisbane - regarding the carbon fouling issue in the upper valvetrain of my POS v8.
(There is a thread on the forum appropriately named)

It looks not unlike yours... actually worse, but I digress...

After an objective discussion about relative merits of decontamination using flushing treatments versus rebuilds etc, I decided to experiment with the flush treatments as a no-lose-situation.

The results actually surprised me quite a bit. You can read about that in the other thread though.

What I can say is that placing any "reliance" on a rovers upper valvetrain lubrication method is akin to putting a dagger to your temple.

While someone may have their own tried and true methodology, it doesn't mean that it will work for you. So I suggest that a bit of pragmatic research would show you the relative similarities between buick, leyland and holden 253 smallblock v8's and you will come up with some design similarities that are too hard to ignore.

So, fwiw, learning about the limitations of the holdens oiling system, the rovers upper valvetrain restrictions that cause the carbon fouling and the terrier 4.4 which is a hybrid of both from a design perspective, and you will end up at Chevytown or back in buickland, looking at the 300 smallblock and even 350.

What you can do, is take all reasonable steps to ensure primary oil pressure is good and volume is good. Then moving away from cast/pressed/stamped steel rockers to a properly machined pedestal/roller rocker arrangement which gives you adjustment and requires less lubrication. From there you can also decide if you want to keep the standard ratio rocker or increase it, to get some better breathing from the camshaft, without having to completely tear into the whole engine. (so long as you know your CR and piston to deck heights)

The only issue that really proves to be a pita is the block's bellhousing pattern, ultimately restricting your transmission choices, unless you find a bellhousing adapter or somesuch.

Some say the 4.4 ran hot in an RRC. I don't know if that's true or not, but it can't be much worse than the 3.9 and the woefully inadequate underbonnet ventilation that RRC's have had since day dot.

From what I know the 4.4 is getting pretty thin on the ground in terms of parts availability now - it's firmly up there in collectors (p76 owners) ebay watchlists etc and that means any parts you're looking for that are unique to the 4.4 like valley covers etc are either NLA or unobtanium. From that perspective I query if it is a worthwhile exercise, but equally understand that it's an engine, it's sitting there and you can put it to use - which is a better option than the rover v8 if you ask me....

But that rover v8 might not be cactus - unless your cam lobes are buggered and your dizzy end float is measured in inches and your engine starts with a knock knock knockin on heavens door...

You'd be surprised how far those rovers can go even when they are completely munted. You should see how mine has survived two P.O's abuse and I still managed to get another 100K out of the original without a rebuild (yet).

So that charcoal in the rocker? it's easily fixed with the CEM flushing oil concentrate over a period of time, but you have to be mindful of how to use it and how effective it is will depend on your care regime.

So - rover out and terrier in, or leave it in and throw a few $ at it until it's kaput.... both valid options.

It's literally down to the money and how easy that swap will be.

Thanks for all of your comments Mercguy, greatly appreciated.
I had a P76 in a 1975 RRC that I installed in the early 80’s.
The LT95 bolts straight onto the block, machined the bore of the flywheel and repitched the mounting bolts, modified the engine mountings, reversed the connections on the radiator so I could use the P76 front housing and water pump, then ran electric fans. Job done.
It was a steam train and I changed the high range transfer gears to 0.996:1 and was an awesome touring vehicle that would go up any hill in top gear.

Because of my experience with it I am going through my “late life crisis” and doing it all again.
However, I’d like the engine bay to look a little more original by fitting the 3.5 heads so I have all of the tapped holes for alternator and power steering pump brackets.
I’m also using the 3.5 front cover and water pump so that the radiator can remain unchanged.
I’m currently searching for a thermostat housing to replace the P76 one so that I can use the original top radiator hose.

My P76 never ran hot even off road, but I did not have AC so there was no restriction of air flow through the radiator.
I read an article on another form on how to improve coolant flow through a P76 engine as the inlet manifold water ports are significantly smaller than the head ports.
This is the head port with the valley cover in place. The head port is approximately the same height as the valley cover opening.
Attachment 184464
This is the valley cover on the inlet manifold. Note the height of the port compared to the valley cover.
Attachment 184465
Another photo after the die grinding of the manifold port. It now matches the height of the cylinder head port.
Attachment 184466

Apparently there is is also an issue with the water transfer ports at the back of the block where the water passes to the cylinder heads so I will address them as well.

What did you use to decarbon your 3.5 with ?

Regards
Phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phil 850

...
What did you use to decarbon your 3.5 with ?

Regards
Phil

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Hi Phil -

Cost Effective Maintenance -

Preventative Maintenance - Cost Effective Maintenance

they ship australia-wide.

thread documenting progress:

The RRC "Cost Effective Maintenance" thread
[thumbsupbig]

While cleaning some of the crud off and around the power steering pump I realised that it was only supported by a bracket on the front of the pump at the end of a stud screwed into the end of the left hand cylinder head and by the belt tensioning screw also on the pump front mounting bracket.
I was actually able to move the pump under hand pressure, so it certainly wasn’t as secure as I thought it should be.
Original mounting.
Attachment 185145
Thinking that surely RRC are better engineered than this I looked up the pars book.
Attachment 185146
As I’d expected, their should be a bracket at the back of the pump (603972) and another to stabilise the front (90610796) of the stud so it is not in “bending”.
I purchased the front one on line but the rear is NLA.
A piece of paper and a pencil was used to trace out the shape I needed for the rear bracket and this was transferred to a piece of 3 mm plate.
Attachment 185148
The spacer tube on the stud then had to be shortened to provide room for the front bracket.
The final installation with the addition of the two missing brackets.
Attachment 185149
Now the pump is mounted more rigidly as one would expect.
As the spacer tube had to be shortened, clearly, the front bracket has never been present and possibly the rear as well.
I this because some monkey has monkeyed with another monkeys monkey, or because Leyland Australia built it that way. [bigsad]

Regards
Phil

A PO must have had a winch as I had cut the brackets welded to the chassis off previously.
To fit the bumper brackets, they had cut the inside flange off each bracket.
So today I cut some new flanges.
Attachment 185330
A bit of work with the MIG and some Satin Black and all ready to reinstall.
Attachment 185331
One more item ✔️ off the loooong list [smilebigeye]

Phil

The air injection had been removed by a PO and the holes filled with 1/2” x 1-1/2” UNF bolts.
There pretty unsightly [bigsad]
Attachment 185339
I bought some 1/2” UNF x 3/8” long set screws from Newcastle High Tensile Bolt and installed them.
Attachment 185340
Really tidied up the cylinder head.
Attachment 185341

Phil

I decided to see if my brake booster was rusty or if it could be cleaned.
This is what it looked like when I bought the RRC.
Attachment 185388
Armed with a tooth brush (not mine) and some CLR, I gently brushed it on and allowed a few minutes for it to act and then brushed it some more.
After a couple of hours it looked like this.
Attachment 185389
The photo also shows up the progress of all the other areas of cleaning and repair work.
Slowly looking better but a long way to go.

Are you up in QLD? This was on the landrover group for sale up there.

https://scontent.fmel7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Sw&oe=64882DBE

we can throw that boat away .... the bit sticking up high is what is needed :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Are you up in QLD? This was on the landrover group for sale up there.

https://scontent.fmel7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Sw&oe=64882DBE

we can throw that boat away .... the bit sticking up high is what is needed :D

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I’m going to go out on a limb here, but I’m suspicious that it might not fit under the bonnet [bighmmm]

A few weeks ago my grandson (almost 12) gave me some assistance removing the two back guards of the RRC and then cleaning and dismantling them.
His mum texted me the other day saying that he had so much fun that would I be working on the RRC over the school holidays.
Grandad and Grandson had a big day today [smilebigeye]
We removed-
Bonnet
Front decker panel
Front guards
Roof
Rear floor
Rear seat riser and floor panel.
Attachment 186098
Attachment 186099
I then said we need to clean all the dust/grime from the chassis.
Sorry Grandad, that’s women’s work, and off he walked !
Guess I’ll just have to clean it all myself [bigwhistle]