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Thread: 35s on Range rover Classic

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Is it just the camera angle or is the RH rear flare broken in the first picture from the tyre hitting it?.
    Regards PhilipA
    The flare is not broken, it is an extension on the flare that has come away from its screw. Look at pic 2 front flare you will notice a 2" piece of flat coming out from the bottom of the flare. It has extensions because this rangie is fitted with a GQ front diff and an 80 series rear diff. Both diffs are 4" wider than a rangie diff and the tyres stick out more than an ordinary tyre. To keep it legal I had to cover the tyre with the extended flare.

    OKA374 The trouble with the transfer case probably came from the vibration caused by the angle of the GQ rear diff to the transfer. GQ rear diff is in the centre not offset like rangie diffs and I don't know of anyone who has solved the vibration problem, hence fitting the 80 series diff which is offset.
    Neale

    85 Range Rover Ute (Project in pieces)
    89 Range Rover Classic (Black Thunder)
    93 200tdi Disco,(OGRE)
    96 300tdi Disco, DEAD MOTOR
    04 Nissan Patrol with ALL the fruit
    09 Cub Daintree Kamperoo
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  2. #12
    Join Date
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    This "big tire" thing is quite interesting. Do people do it just for looks? I've had a few people bang on my door over the last month or so and ask "do you have a 4wd? .... can you pull me out?" .....

    My answer is always, "Probably not .... but I'll take a look". You see anything jacked up on mud tires, I'm not even going to try to get to. They dig everything to there increased diff height, so even a simple innocuous looking puddle can leave you hung up on the diffs if you drive into it.

    The last few have been 2wds and standard twin cab utes. When I ask them "why on earth did you drive into this" ..... they usually don't have an answer. I'd say more often than not they are borrowed/stolen/unregistered cars and they think they won't get caught if they head through the bush. I won't drive into the mud/bog holes unless I know it has a bottom that can support the weight of a 2->3ton 4wd ... and hasn't been dug down to china by morons with jacked up 4wds.... Not that I care if they are tearing up these tracks and having fun, trashing an old 4wd in the bush must be some of the most harmless fun anyone can have these days (before all the greenies start yelling at me .... The entire area around here was turned over in the gold rush a century or so back .... so its just clay and granite and bloody pine forest!).

    I've been using ratchet staps as tow ropes to pull them out .... I probably should invest in a good tow rope someday (I have a snatch strap ... its never been used, anyone that is setup with recovery points so that I could use it ..... is some place I'd never try to get to as I'd be bogged before I got to them).

    seeya,
    shane L.
    Proper cars--
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    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
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  3. #13
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    I remember what I think is a funny story from the past.
    The Range Rover club was on a trip along the track south from Danjera dam.
    There was this big puddle and one of the newer members wanted to drive through it.
    I said not to as his diff on an RRC would get hung up. I even walked him through it to show the depth of the ruts.
    He still insisted and of course drove in and got stuck in the middle.
    I snatched him but made him get out in the water to attach the strap.
    A couple of months later he complained to me that I should have told him his diffs would be full of water .DER!
    Regards PhilipA

  4. #14
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    35's are doable.
    Damo has pretty much covered it, but there are a lot of nuances that require attention - diff ratios, shock lengths, coil lengths, front towers, rear links, radius arms (yeah if you are going offroad absolutely required). and all of this for clearance and higher CofG?

    In all honesty, 33's and a 2" lift will get you just as close and do less damage to the vehicle.

    35's are useful - but there are only a handful of severe offroad situations where they would benefit and not hinder.

    Literally everything underneath will require an engineer-approved adjustment, beefing up or significant geometry changes to maintain the driving characteristics of the stock vehicle.

    not to mention 35's themselves require engineering - which in some states means the lane-change test and braking test. A standard vehicle on 35's is going to struggle to get approval without significant investment or upgrades.

    Just some perspective. Don't shoot the messenger.

    Do it, but by all means be aware of the upfront costs, get in touch with an engineer for discussion prior to picking up any tools.

    I think you will find perspective and some pretty brutal home-truths about getting 35's on legally.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  5. #15
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    33's will require engineering too on a rangie

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    35's are doable.
    Damo has pretty much covered it, but there are a lot of nuances that require attention - diff ratios, shock lengths, coil lengths, front towers, rear links, radius arms (yeah if you are going offroad absolutely required). and all of this for clearance and higher CofG?

    In all honesty, 33's and a 2" lift will get you just as close and do less damage to the vehicle.

    35's are useful - but there are only a handful of severe offroad situations where they would benefit and not hinder.

    Literally everything underneath will require an engineer-approved adjustment, beefing up or significant geometry changes to maintain the driving characteristics of the stock vehicle.

    not to mention 35's themselves require engineering - which in some states means the lane-change test and braking test. A standard vehicle on 35's is going to struggle to get approval without significant investment or upgrades.

    Just some perspective. Don't shoot the messenger.

    Do it, but by all means be aware of the upfront costs, get in touch with an engineer for discussion prior to picking up any tools.

    I think you will find perspective and some pretty brutal home-truths about getting 35's on legally.
    .... plus ruined Roll Centre and worse Anti Squat. There is a reason why cheaply lifted 4wds start to bunny hop on steep hills. m

  7. #17
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    ...and after doing all that engineering turn around and buy a Defender

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    ...and after doing all that engineering turn around and buy a Defender
    Thats exactly what i did35s on Range rover Classic

  9. #19
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    The RRC is capable, but it still has compromises. It erred on the comfort side. The Defender sacrificed the comfort for utilitarian capability.

    I'd rather have an offroad machine I could hose the floor out, than have an ECU go underwater.

    Long before I'd contemplate 35's in an RRC I'd be relocating and waterproofing electrics..

    (been there...)
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Thats exactly what i did35s on Range rover Classic
    I had you in mind, but didn't want to pick on you. But then I shouldn't talk, as I still haven't finished my project... or the other project, or the other, other project...too many projects.

    I must say I really don't like the head space of the RRC. I would have preferred that a D1 or Defender with dud engine had come along, but it didn't. The the rangie was only $200. Can always do a transplant if the right priced carcass turns up.

    Reminds me I need to research and get some advice on making my own manifold so I can have the turbo at the angle I want etc.

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