Thread: Window electrics

Electric windows............. like push a button to go up and down?

Geez... they think of everything these days.

DL

The plot thickens...

So yesterday I drive the RRC to do some errands, making sure all is well.

ZERO problems.

Windows working.
I buzzed out the circuits, even pulled and tested the relays. All AOK

Got home, and went to put the windows up - rears work, passenger fromnt works... drivers decided to throw a curveball and GO DOWN when I pressed up on the switch.

I can hear the relay clicking in the module. so d/c'd everything and as I'm pulling the relays I notice they are properly warm - I mean WAY hotter than they should be.

Could not get anything to resolve. Daren't try any of the other windows lest they all decide to poop themselves. Ended up pulling the plug in the A pillar and sending 12v direct to the motor from a spare auxillary battery I'd recently swapped in the e63, and it punched it up without issue.

So focus back on the module and it's working fine...

then I notice the negative feed (earth) black wire in the middle of the connector has decided to part ways with the crimp fitting.... and it actually looks like it's been in there all those years and was never properly crimped.

So I pop it out and crimp it properly and put it back in....

made diddly squat difference.

So back to Square #1. another case of RTF EM for the my92 dodgy electrics.

The irony is not lost on me either. Back in jan 2015 I had spent the xmas hols rewiring the vehicle electrics from the engine bay into the main fuse panels and the fuel / ecu subharness,
That left the HVAC and electric windows and steering colum mounted switchgear (replaced ign barrel and harness) as the only remaining electrics that were still subject to the influence of the prince of darkness.

Now I am paying for not having evicted it from the vehicle.
Everything that is oshkosh it's bosch - just works.
I notice the yellow relays are siemens. Despite their apparent 'abuse' from whatever is pushing current through them, they are still OK.
I really don't know how far I want to go with this - But the thought of gutting the entire interior yet again is both nauseating and frustrating. I have better things to do with my holidays this year.

the 30A fuse in the dash was quite warm also - so it's prompting me to think that there is a limit switch or other malfunction causing the current drain.

At least it's only when ign on and not occurring when the vehicle is off.

I need to sympathise with you on this one. While I cannot offer a solution, I am currently experiencing something very similar with my 89.

The 89 (from memory) was the first model to offer auto-down on the drivers window, not sure if yours is drivers window only or it includes other windows. So personally I don't believe that the module is your problem.

My rear windows stopped working after i reassembled the interior post failing to replace the carpet.

No matter the position of the rear window iso switch, they would not work from the console switches, and every so often the right rear would work at the door. Testing for power had mixed results. I also noticed that when the front windows were lifted together, they will go incredibly slow.

The wiring diagram is pretty simple and I don't recall anything special about it. I do recall however there being a plug (Brain is Christmas sleepy, so may be wrong) under the dash. The harness runs along the side of the tunnel. Other thing to note the the rear door harnesses run from the rear of the console, straight towards the doors with a plug for each side. This sits under the rear rubber mat and may be accessible without pulling the console.

I am yet to investigate it this way myself, but hopefully yours is similar and you get some joy from those plugs.

You may actually given me a little job for tomorrow.

Good luck

Your auto window module is identical to mine - drivers window only.
I did observe the harness when I had removed the carpets and there is further scope for me to make modifications to how I have run cabling to the rear of the vehicle also, should I wish to undertake some dash mods (always has been in the back of my mind)
I have a dept of the interior centre console and it's a little different, but I can access all the electrics in a jiffy fromthe cubby, straight down to the floor.

Observation of the harness connectors that ran along the side of the trans tunnel in the passenger footwell revealed more moisture, but I'm not particularly chuffed with the layout, and may decide to remanufacture this from the fuse panel to the cubby. I don't know what the plan is yet.

One of the mantras I hold is that if the cable itself is ok and not corroded or high resistance it should be reused, but the spade connectors are a different story. I use waterproof deutsch connectors, sealed heatshrink and lanolin grease on any exposed ring terminal type connectors.
I've also been known to solder them to stop screws from backing out, but don't recommend anyone undertake that unless they carry desolder wick In this specific case I feel the harness itself needs to be partially upgraded for current handling and this is also possibly why those front windows are slow together - Interesting that you noted that, as I thought it was probably just the age of my vehicle and a probable need to pull the regulator out and do a complete overhaul on them all. ... also there is the compounding weak 30A fuse in the dash - when I know the stall current on those motors is closer to 50A. Allowing for factory design Safety margin etc, a 40A fuse from factory would still have been a better choice but I'm figuing the pastic surround in the fuse area couldn't handle it and the wire gauge is a severe compromise on those specific feeds, so it needs to be reworked to satisfy my requirements for reliability.


Everything is done to a cost on these later cars, you can see where they improved over earlier models, but you can also see all too easily where they have cut corners and shaved costs.

It's no different in other manufacturers vehicles, I can cite just as many examples in my other cars where you scratch your head and say why, when a better solution would have cost a few cents more.

The black box at the bottom of the cubby box isn’t really that well sealed.
splashproof yes,waterproof not so much.
Both times I’ve had this issue,dry joints on the circuit board were the main
Fault.
Any moisture in or around that area straining the ability for the electricity to bridge now potentially water damaged solder joints etc,often leading to intermittent operation & false hope of a solution.
The fix was to pull the little black box and take it to an electrical circuit repair dude,who with his magnifying glass will spot and repair the poorly soldered and dry jointed board.
His observation was they weren’t done particularly well when new,so after 30 years of heat and vibration often fail.
The console switches then work fine and faultless after repair.
good luck

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Electric windows............. like push a button to go up and down?

Geez... they think of everything these days.

DL

I wish OKA had thought of them..

Originally Posted by Tins

I wish OKA had thought of them..

Easy to say that when you don't have to deal with the issues.

Originally Posted by 350RRC;[URL="tel:3126967"

3126967[/URL]]Easy to say that when you don't have to deal with the issues.

I do have a D1