Thread: Symptoms of failing ignition switch

Almost certain its switch sprayed some WD40 into switch what could possibly go wrong. Turn key and no power to fuel pump ignition/dash. Turn it back forth and feel/ hear a click in switch and power comes on to fuel pump/ignition/dash. Seems to be working now. But for how long🤷*♂️

Originally Posted by Meccles

Almost certain its switch sprayed some WD40 into switch what could possibly go wrong. Turn key and no power to fuel pump ignition/dash. Turn it back forth and feel/ hear a click in switch and power comes on to fuel pump/ignition/dash. Seems to be working now. But for how long🤷*♂️

Pretty simple to bypass for a temporary solution if it fails completely.

Been there.

Does sound somewhat similar to the problems I had............ the giveaway is it is remedied by turning the key on and off. Mine also seemed to be somewhat temperature related.

Caused by the copper dimples in the actual switch getting worn and the probs will get worse IME.

Had to hotwire mine out in the boonies when it got really bad and I figured out what was causing it, as JT says pretty easy.

I actually uncrimped the switch back home and 'refreshed' the dimples and put it back together and it was fine for awhile. Put a new aftermarket barrel and switch in 200k ago.

A whole new barrel, keys and switch is 150 or so for genuine Lucas. I recently put one in because the barrel was going (too many keys hanging off it for too long apparently).

Used the old switch because the Lucas one was for a 90's model and had different connections which I couldn't be bothered changing.

Just get the switch if the actual lock is good.

cheers, DL

Thanks! Issue is getting a switch in short time given time of year

Thanks! And will keep idea of bypassing the switch as option until I can get a new one. Appreciated

Yep had this issue back in 2015 - I bought a replacement ignition barrel and switch.

Had a lot of fun drilling out the bolts before putting the new ones in with a "special" modification.

But you might be able to resurrect what you have if you pull the switch off the back of the barrel - it's just that you'll have to pull half the dash out to do it.

The hotwire method would be a good idea if you have some spare wire and spade lugs. especially if your key isn't up to snuff.

Have had keys fail in Mercedes before and the RRC is a doddle to replace compared to the Merc (took 2 days to get the barrel out without destroying the column) as the steering lock mechanism in those is typically german - i.e. it works far too efficiently.

think the whole job in RRC took about 2.5 hours from start to completely reassembled interior.

WD40 seems to have done the trick and I found in my collected box of bits a old Lucas complete steering lock/ignition switch that works. Got that available so can easily drop a cowl unplug old switch plug in new and go from there. Keep old one in place with key in to keep steering lock working.