RRC plastic sill finisher

I fix weird stuff like this often for people. Things like 2 foot long splits in HDPE tanks in vineyard sprayers.

You really need to splint across the breaks internally with something like shaved down treated pine (don't laugh) so it's a neat fit. Say pieces 100mm long, do a trial fit.

Clean the insides where the splint is going to go with xylene or all purpose thinners containing xylene. Dampen the splint with same.

Coat the splint with selleys all clear, get a bit of all clear inside the finisher and push the splint halfway in, repeat for the other bit of the break.

Working time is 2 min. You should end up with a very thin join.

Clean excess goop off the outside with turps on a rag after 10 mins.

cheers, DL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phil 850

Had a few minutes to spare today so I got some fine wet and dry to sand down the joins.
While sanding one I bumped the other one that was standing on its end and it fell on the floor and the “bonded” joint fell apart [bawl]
I was able to easily peel the adhesive off.
Perhaps it was poor preparation but I thought I had done everything correctly, or it’s just the wrong adhesive for this material [bighmmm]

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You can't just glue plastic. You need to identify the type of plastic first, then use the appropriate repair method. I bought a plastic welder years ago to try and repair my cars bumpers. It worked, but isn't as easy or simple as you would think. You still need to fill and paint anything reparied so it looks ok

Identify Plastic for Repair

PLastic welding was one of those "dark arts" 20 years ago when I learned. matching the filler rod to the parent material which was more often than not unmarked back in the day, unlike now where precise composition of the material is quite literally in the part itself

There are even better methods now for joining cracked parts - but special tool req'd.

the hot wire staple method is currently the most popular and quick-fix at low cost, and often panel shops will use this repair method instead of the more thorough and time-consuming plastic welding method. Occasionally they will use both methods, where damage is complex and the part needs to be retained whilst welding in filler.

Damien's method is a good one and is almost a net-zero outlay and if that's appealing then I'd try it. buying a plastic welder and the ABS filler rods, learning how to use it without destroying your part or purchasing a hot wire stapler and staples is going to be more expensive than ordering brand new plastics from ol' blighty.

Well I’ve tried a couple of different adhesives and this one seems to have done the trick.
Attachment 176592

Bonds relatively quickly and then you can reinforce the joint, or keep adding more in multiple layers to fill the crevice and then sand smooth.
I haven’t deliberately tried to break the joint but it feels stiff but pliable, So I think it may last.

Phil