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Thread: Springs for an 88 Classic.

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    Springs for an 88 Classic.

    I think its time to install some new springs into my 1988 RRC. The are currently standard springs with the rear passenger side sagging quite badly. I have a bulbar and winch on the front and gas tanks under the rear. I am considering some King Springs, KRFR-01 for the front and KRRR-02 for the rear, apparently around +30mm ride height. Any thoughts on these springs, or other options?

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    If you actually end up with +30mm of lift you'll need to slot the swivel balls to get the correct caster on the front end, otherwise they drive like a shopping trolley.

    My Pos came with Pedders HD +2" springs and they haven't sagged at all over the last 20+ years. Bit stiff though. I have some supposedly soft +2" Kings that I haven't tried yet.

    Very unusual for a RRC to sag on the passenger side at the rear, driver's side is the norm.

    DL

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    Sorry, it is the rear drivers side sagging, not the passenger.

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    LRA would be the people to see and they're not far from you. They know this inside out, upside down.

    Check first, someone posted recently that they'll exchange springs purchased from them if it doesn't work out the way you want. Again........ confirm it with them.

    DL

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    Sorry............... sorta double post.


    LRA would be the people to see and they're not far from you. They know this inside out, upside down.

    It will take all the guess work and personal opinions out of the equation. You have a unique vehicle with unknown sprung mass at each end so it's really impossible to advise unless weighed, which I'd assume LRA would do.

    Check first, someone posted recently that they'll exchange springs purchased from them if it doesn't work out the way you want. Again........ confirm it with them.

    DL

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    echo the above sentiment - the only way to make a correct determination is to have the vehicle at full kerb weight with normal loads / fuel / water / accessories / passenger(s) and corner weigh the vehicle for that 'normal' use situation.

    Any other method is pure speculation and will not net the desired result.

    It's especially important with regards to ride height, and damper settings also.

    Not to mention antiroll bars (if fitted) and certainly will impact any decisions made regarding articulation in off-road usage.

    bumpstops will need changing, possible swivel slotting or radius arm eccentric bushes for caster correction adjustment or replacement of the a-arm balljoint on the rear diff housing to ensure correct pinion angle through full range of articulation.

    inclusive of but not limited to all of the above considerations.

    choice of damper rate is just as critical as the spring rate and length choice. You might find yourself with a poor handling or unpredictable handling vehicle if these things are not given due consideration.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
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    Is all of that really needed for just a 30mm lift?
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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    After looking further into these springs, the ride height claimed can be from +20mm to +30mm. I think with the weight on the front and rear of my Range Rover I would be looking closer at the +20mm figure. I did manage to contact King Springs and they say the spring rates are 200lb/in for the front and 230lb/in for the rear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Is all of that really needed for just a 30mm lift?
    No, in my 23 year ownership of 2xrrcs and 1 D1 all with a 2" plus lift I never did anything other than fit lifted springs.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Is all of that really needed for just a 30mm lift?
    Simon,
    You'd be surprised I think.
    Especially if the vehicle is normally laden or partially laden with stuff like fridge, hi-lift, relocated spare or stuff on roof etc.

    The spring rate might not change much, but the spring length will differ and the compression and rebound rates on the dampers will have a very noticeable effect.

    This is why the Koni 88's and Koni Raid's were popular fitment, due to the damping adjustment offered, as opposed to the bilstein's off-the-shelf pricing and valving versus a customized rate setup (i.e. the heasman-bilstein price penalty)

    There are plenty of ways to skirt the issue and many options, but the factually correct way to process any adjustment and improve handling is to start with a known baseline - corner weights and static height measurements, then out with the springs and dampers for measurement before selection and installation of new parts.

    It simply eliminates guesswork and the suboptimal results for little difference in total outlay.

    The only instance where I'd exclude corner weighing would be with a 100% standard vehicle and standard springs.

    cheers,
    Joe
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
    MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
    MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
    MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand

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