Thanks for the info, I pick the box up in a week or two, so I'll pull it down when I get it.
cheers
Roger
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Thanks for the info, I pick the box up in a week or two, so I'll pull it down when I get it.
cheers
Roger
BTW I think I prefer the D2 "quiet" LT230 than the BW, which is a reversal of what I used to think with the older LT230s which were noisy and clunky.
The BW is a bit like traction control where you have to keep your foot on the gas for the axle speed difference to lock up the Viscous coupling. So you come to say a rock step and sit there a few seconds while the front axle gets some drive.
Similarly in sand for the first few feet of takeoff you are in rear wheel drive only until the wheelspin causes the Viscous coupling to lock. I have never been bogged from this.
I had a rear maxi drive and front Quaife and this made the car almost unstoppable within reason.
When I owned the 91, I never lusted after a LT230 but if given a no cost differenc choice I would now go LT230 but only a late one from a D2.
Regards PhilipA
What is the difference between an early (noisy) and a later D2 (quiet) LT230.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
i had a 85 highline with an LT77/LT230 and didn’t find it noisy. Perhaps it was by modern day standards though [bighmmm]
When I rebuilt an LT95 in the early 80’s I was told by the sales staff at JRA to shim the transfer gears to “zero” end float but NOT TIGHT. The alloy case will expand faster and more than the gears so you will get “clearance” as it warms up. It was quiet as a mouse after rebuilding [bigsmile1]
Phil
AFAIK at least LR changed the pitch of the gears inside so that noise would be reduced.Quote:
What is the difference between an early (noisy) and a later D2 (quiet) LT230.
I guess I am thinking also of when I went on Range Rover Club off road trips you could always hear the Defenders and D1s as they came to a stop by the clunk, clunk of the transfers as the slop was taken up.
I think also the rubber coupling on the driveshaft may have a role in stopping the On-off clunks.
Regards PhilipA
There's a lot more to an LT 230............... from Bush65 on Pirate:Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
'There are two different 1.2:1 gear sets, the earlier 1.222:1 gear set has stronger teeth than the later 1.211:1 gear set. The change to smaller, weaker teeth was made in the interest of reducing noise.
1.222:1 set was fitted into 28D and 32D (prefix) LT230's.
The weak 1.211:1 set was fitted into 36D, 37D, 38D, 40D, 41D, 59D, 61D, 62D, 68D, 69D, 70D, 80D, and 90D LT230's.
Its too long ago since I have looked inside the different LT230's, but something to think about is whether the 1.410:1 as used in Land Rover 110's and 130's are stronger, from memory I believe they are, but can't put my hand on the info I had. I don't know what the 1.192:1 ratio was used in, and have never seen those particular gear sets.
1.410:1 was fitted to 13D, 22D, 25D, 43D, and 57D LT230's.
1.192:1 was fitted to 27D and 29D LT230's.'
From this thread on Pirate, pretty full on but interesting:
I blew up my LT 230 at KOH and it took me out. | Pirate 4x4
There are differences in all sorts of things like spider gears in the centre diffs and output bearings in 230's over the years.
cheers, DL
Haven't looked in at this section for ages...my first thought with the description of the loss of drive in the BW was, as Philip says, the output shaft has stripped. The VC fails by the fluid gumming up like hardened silastic which results in loss of differential action, not loss of drive. I had to walk and then hitchhike out of the high country due to a stripped output shaft in a BW transfer. The solution was to carry a LT230 back up there and install it on the track. Never had a desire to go back to the BW, the LT230 is far more reliable. However if getting one for free and you have a use for it, it probably just needs a new output shaft.
Why stuff around............ this addresses the stretched chain issue, the centre diff as well........Quote:
Originally Posted by POD
Borg Warner - Ashcroft Transmissions
I have an LT230Q in my ****box rangie. It's a revelation after listening to the howl of an LT230 for years. I've read it "might" not be as strong as a standard LT230.... I'm not concerned. Its shock loadings that break stuff. Drive it as hard as you like, just don't do the shock loadings of low range full power runs at rocks/cliff faces/etc..... If you start this caper, you will break something .... diffs, CV's, gearboxs, transfer cases, axles .... etc... take your pick .... roll the dice and see what breaks while your in low 1st with the loud pedal nailed to the floor with wheels bouncing off the ground throwing shock loads through everything [bigwhistle]
I've always driven stuff hard.... but never with shock loadings if I can help it .... ie: get the thing rolling first, then nail the loud pedal to the floor.