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Thread: 1986 problems

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    1986 problems

    The 1986 Range Rover fuel injected had to come home on the back of a truck. The fuel pump and filter were replaced 2 years ago. I pulled out the pump and had it running and the tank has been cleaned. The car will start and revs up with no miss or hesitation, but after about 1 or two kilometres it dies and stops. Just hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and went for a drive, still getting 35/ 40 PSI at the fuel rail and it still conked out. There is spark and I changed the coil as well. So I have fuel and spark ...... Could it be the crank angle sensor , distributor/rotor button, not sure what else. Its an intermittent fault. Thanks..

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    Does the '86 have a crank angle sensor? I don't think mine did. The P38A certainly did.
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    No crank angle sensor on the flapper EFI. On the later 14CUX a temp sensor can cause issues like this if it is reading incorrectly and the fuel mixture is changed to compensate. Given it happens as the engine heats up I’d be checking this - check the resistance of it cold and hot, but sorry I’m not sure what the range is off the top of my head.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Hi Replace the rotor with genuine…it’s happened to me twice over 20 plus years of ownership😁
    Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
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  5. #5
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    Had the car running in the dark, no sparks or anything under the bonnet. Ive got a genuine rotor button on order, will be here next week. What about the MAF , thats the only other thing that I haven't looked at. There are points in there and that copper coil thingy. It was set up correctly two years ago.

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    If it has points, it will also have a condenser. The condenser could be an issue and I would replace it.
    my daughters Morris 850 had an engine rebuild with a brand new distributor but it started to die and stop from time to time.
    Eventually stopping altogether. Dead condenser.

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    I was wondering if there is a way to test the distributor, there are no points or condenser on this model. Still has the rotor button but the bottom part is electronic.

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    Bradtot, you were right. Put a new rotor arm on and it has not done it since. Had M R Motors in Redcliffe post it out to me. Still can't get my head around it, to me it either works or it doesn't.

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    Quote Originally Posted by crispy View Post
    Bradtot, you were right. Put a new rotor arm on and it has not done it since. Had M R Motors in Redcliffe post it out to me. Still can't get my head around it, to me it either works or it doesn't.
    I had an experience with this type of thing recently on a friend's 86 RRC. One minute running, then next stopped dead, checked fuel, output of coil etc etc. All seemed AOK but not getting a spark to the plugs. Made no sense and incredibly frustrating - eventually decided to tow the vehicle back down the track he was on. Turned out to be the rotor button - instead of transferring the spark to the relevant pickup on the distributor cap, it had shorted under the brass leg on the top of the rotor (this one had a small screw holding the plate in place so we could see under) - instead of the spark going to the distributor cap it found the path of least resistance back to ground through the plastic. There was a tiny burn mark underneath the brass arm which indicated a possible short through the plastic. New rotor and AOK, a small thing but so crucial. Lesson for me, always carry a spare rotor, preferably the old one which was OK and functional but you decided to replace as it was getting old.

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