Thread: REMOTE CENTRAL LOCKING FOR 1986 CLASSIC

I fitted an aftermarket kit. But had to upgrade to stronger solenoids as the Rangie locking mechanisms took a but more omph to move and the standard solenoid plastic shaft would just bend.

I found the factory solenoids just got gunned up and removal and a good clean an lube of the whole locking mechanism and the solenoids was all that was needed to get them going again. Then adding a remote system in over this was easy.

If it is all knackered the aftermarket kit with HD solenoids would be a good option as mentioned - I’d still give the whole door latch and locking mechanism a good clean and going over regardless.

I have now tried two after market kits, the first one (a basic four door remote system) came very close to setting fire to the whole car, (poor old girl), the second one, a more fancy unit with alarm, immobilizer and remote locking just didn't want to work at all properly, the computer wanted to do it's own thing every time the button was pressed.
Ever heard the saying "cheap Japanese S%^t" well we can apply China to that saying now.
This was all very dis-heartening as the second time round I deliberately bought a more up market unit rather than the first one, thinking that it must be of better quality, not so.
I may go back to re-establishing the old system which had the key central locking, saves having another computer draining off battery power when she (Vilet) is parked up.

Anyway thanks blokes.
Regards:-
Pat Martin

Originally Posted by Patrick M

I have now tried two after market kits, the first one (a basic four door remote system) came very close to setting fire to the whole car, (poor old girl), the second one, a more fancy unit with alarm, immobilizer and remote locking just didn't want to work at all properly, the computer wanted to do it's own thing every time the button was pressed.
Ever heard the saying "cheap Japanese S%^t" well we can apply China to that saying now.
This was all very dis-heartening as the second time round I deliberately bought a more up market unit rather than the first one, thinking that it must be of better quality, not so.
I may go back to re-establishing the old system which had the key central locking, saves having another computer draining off battery power when she (Vilet) is parked up.

I fitted a basic 4 door system, finally OK. The problem I found was with the dual master actuators, one in the drivers door and one in the passenger door with the old computer talking to both - initially when I put the new generic master in the drivers door, it would set of a weird chain reaction where the locks would just cycle open and closed. Finally sorted it by putting a basic 2 wire unit in the passenger door (deleting the other 3 wires - safely insulated them). With keyless entry there is no need for a master in the passenger door (I think that was set up for exports). There was a bit of trial and error, but now I have a perfectly functional keyless entry system. As I remember, if you look at the colours of the lock wires in the back doors, it will tell you which ones to delete for the master unit in the passenger door.