No drive

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Originally Posted by StuRR80

No, it was cold when I checked.

I’ll need to let it run for a while to warm it all up. Although if I can’t drive it, will the trans warm up?

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Trans should warm up to coolant temp if it has enough fluid in it because the trans cooler is inside one of the radiator tanks.

Both the trans fluid lines on the radiator should become warm after awhile with the engine running.

Line pressure in those ZF's is largely controlled by the throttle kickdown cable AFAIK.

The cable does 2 things and correct adjustment is crucial. Other things can go wrong with this cable and what it's connected to............sticking, etc, which can lead to A pack slippage and wear.

I have heaps of info about this, just coz I'm interested in the difference between a ZF and how the C9 in my POS works (lockdown line pressure controlled by vacuum).

Get the fluid level right first as Shane says and go from there.

DL

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

If it is the 93 it could be a few things.
The governor may be sticking. try to move in gear position 1.
2 The splines on the rear output shaft on the transfer case may be worn out and slipping in forward but just grabbing in reverse. If it has done say 220K or so That would be my first guess.
3 the A clutches may be gone but AFAIR it should still move if in 1.
Regards PhilipA

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3 didn’t happen with mine, but mine is a D2 so different.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

If it is the 93 it could be a few things.
The governor may be sticking. try to move in gear position 1.
2 The splines on the rear output shaft on the transfer case may be worn out and slipping in forward but just grabbing in reverse. If it has done say 220K or so That would be my first guess.
3 the A clutches may be gone but AFAIR it should still move if in 1.
Regards PhilipA

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Thanks Philip.

Have tried all variety of gears, moving from N to D to 1 to R, hi and lo. With little to no effect. R only works "sometimes". I did get it to move in 1 recently but it was a struggle.

Vehicle has approx. 398,000km

Before removing the transmission , I suggest taking off the rear driveshaft and the rear output shaft to reveal the splines. This is all pretty easy. then get someone to start the car and put into gear and see if the output shaft moves. Usually the output shaft is OK but the yoke connecting to the driveshaft is worn out.
The car will not move if the splines are worn out as there is a centre diff before the Viscous coupling and front shaft. You will easily see if the splines are worn out. I had to drive mine off with a hammer as it was just on the verge of failure.
Regards PhilipA

I had the car running for while today, up to operating temp and the oil level didn't seem to move too much, however, it is WAY overfull.

Just looking back through some work I had done on the vehicle, I did actually have the transfer case shaft replaced in 2014. Having said that, the vehicle has been off the road since 2015.

So could the overfull oil situation also be causing this? I'll drop it anyway, and refill.

Is there a way for the oil from somewhere else end up in the auto too (a la LT95 trf/gearbox seals)?

I'll also drop the tailshaft, as Phillip suggests, and inspect.

Is it possible for the oil to be contaminated, raising the transmission level, by coolant?

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

Is it possible for the oil to be contaminated, raising the transmission level, by coolant?

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Oil looks clear - reddish colour.

No green coolant orwater cloudiness.

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Is there a way for the oil from somewhere else end up in the auto too (a la LT95 trf/gearbox seals)?

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These have a cooler in the RH radiator tank. A leak there will cause a mix of water and ATF. Has the radiator got ATF in it?
Regards PhilipA

If the level isn't low .... I'd be thinking the gearbox is no good. If you look under the car, none of the output shafts are spinning right? and early LT230 without cross drilling on the input shaft gear can strip the output shaft spline out. However if you look under the car and one of the shafts is turning, you have a broken CV joint or diff. If you can see an output shaft spinning, engage the center diff lock and the car will probably move.

Checked yesterday, no ATF in radiator.

So I'll drop the extra fluid and check the output shafts next.