How do I determine the health of the CV joint and axle? I have cleaned some of the old grease out and I'm not sure how to determine how much play is acceptable in these units.
Any recommendations for a place in Melbourne for a second opinion?
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How do I determine the health of the CV joint and axle? I have cleaned some of the old grease out and I'm not sure how to determine how much play is acceptable in these units.
Any recommendations for a place in Melbourne for a second opinion?
76 would have had oil filled hubs. Do the hubs (bits with the steering arms) have a fill hole, level hole and drain hole? I dunno whether D1 did or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by travascus
If they have those three holes and you want to go back to using oil there is a double lip seal that must be used. Oil is way better than using liquid grease IMO.
I'll have the specs for Def hubs if you want the wear limits........they should be very similar to RRC which I've possibly got as well.
Most people get new pistons with a seal kit for the callipers. It's all pretty straightforward except for the wiper seal retainers.
There is a thread on here somewhere that shows the best way to install those and genuine Lockheed are the way to go.
You don't need to split the callipers to put new seals in. I used a smear of rubber grease on the pistons when I did mine. If you don't know what that is don't do it.
76 is moist likely going to have imperial gland nuts on the ends of the metal brake lines. These will be incompatible with the metric threads on hoses for D1 callipers and any D1 master cylinder if that's what you're going to use. This will need to be sorted.
cheers, DL
Fantastic information DL — really appreciate it. The hubs do have three holes, but I will go with the liquid grease on mine and see how it fares, it'll probably be okay for what I'm doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
Keeping an eye on the metric / imperial fasteners will definitely drive me nuts (see what I did there ;-) — it's definitely on my mind.
I've been working on restoring the D1 axles that I have to use, and it's coming up to time to install them, but I am having a hell of a time trying to remove the alloy wheels that are fitted. Tried some RP7 / CRC / WD40, long levers and dead hammers but they're not budging (weak! too much office work).
Any thoughts / suggestions?
Anyone want these wheels?
Attachment 195666
[QUOTE=travascus;3262683]I've been working on restoring the D1 axles that I have to use, and it's coming up to time to install them, but I am having a hell of a time trying to remove the alloy wheels that are fitted. Tried some RP7 / CRC / WD40, long levers and dead hammers but they're not budging (weak! too much office work).
Any thoughts / suggestions?
Anyone want these wheels? [QUOTE]
Are the nuts seized? Are they solid nuts, i.e. no metal covers?
If so I'd be using a pin torch on the visible end of the nut so it swells slightly before the stud gets time to expand from the heat.
It might take a bit of experimenting to get the timing right.
This technique also works on removing steering box pitman arms.
DL
The alloy wheel nuts on my 98 D1 have stainless metal caps , which tend to distort if a rattle gun is used to remove them. Their body is cylindrical apart from a taper at the inner end, so if they have not been undone for a while, may have corrosion on the straight steel sides where they fit into the alloy wheel. I would suggest a six sided socket and the longest breaker bar you can find, possibly with a pipe extension over it. Make sure you have no body parts ( yours or the Rangie’s) in the way if it gives suddenly.
As a quirky aside, the early Rangie owners book warns not to put alloy wheels on them. Must be some difference with the wheel studs .
Good luck, Woolly.
If you can get the nuts undone,but wheel won't budge,leave nuts loose and drive vehicle up and down the driveway slowly,or where ever,and they will loosen.Quote:
Originally Posted by travascus
common problem with alloy wheels on many brands of vehicles.
I ended up with another car here last week. I found the same thing with its wheels. I started with my little ozito battery impact that will usually remove the 27mm range rover nuts... but this little passenger sedan ... I moved onto a 1 meter long breakers bar and couldn't budge them (how in the hell can you get them that tight and not sheer the damn things off). In desperation I pulled out my big 3/4" impact wrench used for crank nuts and driveshaft nuts (really is designed for heavy machinary). It did remove them easily, the suprising bit is it did it without sheering all the studs off.
I should ask the previous owner what tire shop did the tires .... so I can go have a "discussion" with the nuff nuffs working there. There is no chance in this universe I would have been able to change those wheels on the side of the road!
seeya
Shane L.
On mine the hub is slightly bigger diameter than these later model alloys. So the alloys have to be "trimmed" a bit to fit. My guess is yours haven't been trimmed enough so wheel hub is jammed on axle hubs. Double Chevrons idea sounds a good one to work them loose
I had the same issue when I put D1 steels on my 81 rrc in 1994, had to grind the hub and drive flange a little to get them on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meccles
