Coils back to E.A.S.

Hi POD

Sounds to me like you are ready to go to the next level.

You can get a free version of the EAS unlock program, build a custom cable and do it yourself, all you need is a computer (laptop) with a serial port.

Now this is readily available for the P38, but I think there are some subtle differences for the classic.

I know someone has done it, so it should be documented by now.

Go to rangerovers.net (the other great Range Rover resource) and you should be able to find all the details.

IIRC someone near Canberra was figuring it out for the classic.

Good luck

Dave

I just had a bit of a look (couldn't help myself). The sofware works, you just need a different cable.

Have a read through this thread, there is a cable layout diagram for the classic included

RangeRovers.net • View topic - New EAS Tools - EASunlock, EASfaults, EAScalibrate

Dave

Aha! Just what I have been looking for- the guy in the States who wrote the software has cables for the classic but they are pretty pricey, and a long way away. I'll look at those threads again tomorrow, I'm cutting it fine for a commitment tonight, have just spent the afternoon rebuilding the compressor and wiring a 15-pin connector into the back of my ECU plug to connect my manual controller. She goes up and down a beaut. I'm having a few problems running the compressor via the pressure cut-out switch so at present I have no way of knowing whether I am about to blow up the air reservoir. Some tinkering yet to do.
The valve block seems to be working fine, but I will put the seal kit through it when it arrives in the mail, along with a refill of dessicant for the drier. All the height sensors have resistance in the same ball-park and the resistance goes up and down when I rock the vehicle, so I guess that's a good start there too. I'm also considering running the compressor inlet hose up to the engine air cleaner and tapping into the clean side of the air filter box- the compressor was full of crap from behind the wheel arch.
I'll leave the car in the shed overnight and see if the wheel-arch heights are the same in the morning as when I left it just now. I can see this project filling in a few idle hours yet.
Pete

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Originally Posted by POD

Well I have decided to buck the trend and return my 94 soft-dash classic to it's original state by reinstalling the air suspension. The coil conversion is the only modification that this vehicle has had prior to me buying it, and the ride is atrocious- poor choice of springs combined with Monroe Gas shockies. My old 88 rangie still rides better than this one. Everything for the EAS is still in place, just remains to be seen which bits are working. I picked up a set of airbags cheap off eBay which decided me to give it a go. Upon investigating the compressor, it was totally cactus- I'm hoping this is the only major fault with the system. I've bought one of the compressor piston & sleeve kits from AirbagMan and am just waiting for the local bearing supply to get me a bearing for the compressor motor that is not in the kit. Might put some new brushes in too if I can find some that fit. I have just finished fitting up the airbags with some manual inflation valves, rides so much better already. Once the compressor is finished I'll be trying to find someone with the right diagnostics to reset the computer...and tell me what else is wrong no doubt.
Anyone out there who has removed their EAS system from one of these vehicles and still has some components sitting around, I may be looking for some bits soon.

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:thumbsup::clap2::thumbsup::clap2::thumbsup::clap2 ::thumbsup::clap2::thumbsup::clap2:

This has got to be a first!!!!!

Love it!!!

Good choice IMO. Most people ditch it as they dont understand it or know how to assess it for issues correctly.

With regards to the cable for the Classic, I am having trouble even finding one on an old harness, but am going to do a piggy back with a more standard kind of plug. Have the software but laptop passed away a number of months ago after a confrontation with my fist. Seems gentle persuasion wasnt its thing when it wouldnt do what it was supposed to do..... :angel: :whistling:

With running the compressor intake from the filter, I probably wouldnt as it will be hot air sucking into the compressor. This may give you temp o/load faults as it WILL increase the compressor temp.
Increase the intake hose size to about 20mm and fit a good filter to it in the usual position. The standard hose size does suffer a bit of suction loss and with a dirty filter, performs poorly.

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Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

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With regards to the cable for the Classic, I am having trouble even finding one on an old harness, but am going to do a piggy back with a more standard kind of plug.
.

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Well I have just had a very good win that might be of use to others as well- I have a set of doors from a 1986 rangie behind my shed; I have just discovered that the power window harness inside the doors has this exact connector, with all the pins present and wired:):):). Now to source the transistor...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by POD

Well I have just had a very good win that might be of use to others as well- I have a set of doors from a 1986 rangie behind my shed; I have just discovered that the power window harness inside the doors has this exact connector, with all the pins present and wired:):):). Now to source the transistor...

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oooooooooohhhhh!!!!! How much for one of the others????? Would be keen to get hold of one if they not going to be used!! :D:D:D:D:D:D

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Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

oooooooooohhhhh!!!!! How much for one of the others????? Would be keen to get hold of one if they not going to be used!! :D:D:D:D:D:D

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One of the others?? There is ONE other- and it's sitting here with your name on it. PM me your address and it'll be in the mail.
Pete

I should clarify that, as I have just noticed my error a couple of posts back- it is actually from the power MIRROR harness, not the window motor harness, so there are just the 2.

I gutted an old AA/AAA battery recharger last night and discovered the correct transistor inside too, no 15K resistors, but plenty of 5K ones- 3 of these in a line and I now have everything I need except for the DB9 connector, which shouldn't be hard to get.

More of a problem at the moment is the actual easunlock software- I can download it but I can't open it; looks like I have to buy a program to open it:mad:. Also have discovered that I have problems with my laptop- haven't used it in ages, the kids use it, looks like it has viruses:mad::mad::mad:

Two steps forward, one step back...

Well, have successfully downloaded and opened the EASunlock software (had to download WINZIP- didn't realise my trial version was defunct- and some other program that I don't have a clue what it does), have constructed the cable with the necessary resistors & transistor, have connected everything to the car and am getting absolutely no response to any functions in the software. Small steps I guess. Looking at the ESWsolutions FAQ, I appear to have a problem getting the right com port on my laptop. I didn't even think of this as it looks like the software is communicating with the ECU, but now when I run it in my office without it even connected to the car, it does exactly what it was doing on the car. I feel like a bit of a dill cos I thought I had reset the EAS, connected everything back up and it just sinks to the bumpstops- I kept doing this, pumping it all back up with my manual controller again and again- now I realise the laptop wasn't even connected to the car! Have to go out to a Christmas function tonight, so won't get to play any more for a bit. Thanks to those who have helped thus far with advice.

Does your laptop have a serial port or are you using a USB --> Serial cable adapter.

If using the adapter, you can "assign" a port number to it in the devices set up so that it reads as a port less than 12 (which is what the EASunlock s/w goes up to I think)

With all the other crap I have, the adapter would come up as port 17 which was too high.

Just a thought.

Dave