Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: patrol shocks

  1. #11
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Luv the flex ...

    When you cut the Boge level unit ... You still kept that big knuckle joint connection to the diff tho ?? ... (To keep the diff in position) cause that seems to be missing in the photo

    When you killed the Boge .. were their any "downsides" to it

    Mike

    I'ts still there. It reminds me when I drive it. Clunk clunk I must change it soon. When gas axed the boge the car sat 2" higher with out the weight of it And leaks less. I put 220 lbs 2" lift springs and then used spacers to set it up to ride height I wanted. With the down travel rides awsome over rough country here I have kept the front end a bit tame Has 80series cruiser long travel shoks and have used RRC rear springs with spacers so still handles well at speed. So I can run down ferral Pigs with it
    I done this one years ago and was one of a kind around here then. It used to amaze people how well it rode and handled at speed off road + how far it would flex.
    Things are a lot more scientific and expensive now days
    Tony

  2. #12
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    with spacers so still handles well at speed. So I can run down ferral Pigs with it
    Actually ... If you look at the "inside of the wheel arch" .... in your photo ... That explains the "rag remains"

    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Things are a lot more scientific and expensive now days
    Tony
    Sometimes I think it's more about the brand name ... rather than the fun of a experiment of mix & match


    That boge is to keep the diff level for the tailshaft?? ... So your using the spacers to keep the alignment?

    Mike


  3. #13
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Actually ... If you look at the "inside of the wheel arch" .... in your photo ... That explains the "rag remains"



    Sometimes I think it's more about the brand name ... rather than the fun of a experiment of mix & match


    That boge is to keep the diff level for the tailshaft?? ... So your using the spacers to keep the alignment?

    Mike

    Worst thing about mix and match is shocks are damped for car weight, Spring rate and un sprung weight...Low in a rangie. I found patrol shocks to hard in stock angle so played with more angle= more travel and shock now has to work harder wich similates its original purpose... The heavier patrol. Many argue with this set up as doesn't force the front to flex till rear fully cycled but it seems to work me.
    I have retained the A arm and ball joint to locate diff.

    This pic shows how front wont flex on a side slope till rear maxed out.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #14
    2door grover Guest
    Thanks for the quick replys.

    Why are people using the 80 cruiser shocks up front, are they longer or do the patrol shocks have the wrong ends?

    Mickashay that looks to work pretty well with the 2" shock. How much does the shock have left to compress when on the bumpstop, did you have to make up a spacer for the bumpstop?

    Rangier rover, do you have some pics of your top mount? would be less work to just make top mounts and have no bumpstop spacing. Love the flex your car has

    I come from driving sierra's so the scientific and expensive ways are out the window with me

  5. #15
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by 2door grover View Post
    Thanks for the quick replys.

    Why are people using the 80 cruiser shocks up front, are they longer or do the patrol shocks have the wrong ends?

    Mickashay that looks to work pretty well with the 2" shock. How much does the shock have left to compress when on the bumpstop, did you have to make up a spacer for the bumpstop?

    Rangier rover, do you have some pics of your top mount? would be less work to just make top mounts and have no bumpstop spacing. Love the flex your car has

    I come from driving sierra's so the scientific and expensive ways are out the window with me

    Some thing like this..


    Leave lowering bump stops as a last resort if you want big flex.

    80 series shocks are a bit longer but have a longer closed stoke so wont work with out lift,longer shock turrets, or bump stops lowered. The front is a lot harder to make flex as springs pop out, drive shaft will hit X member etc
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    2door grover Guest
    I have found that in my other cars the lower bumpstop works as a pivot when crossing up the diffs and puts a bit more force on the wheel on the other side. I'll leave it till last and see how the set up goes with out them 1st.

    So what do i need to do to get the front working well?

    I'm off now to try and put the bl dy vents back in the dash i just swapped and its not going well

  7. #17
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Have a look at this lot. Some of it not leagle or engineerable in AUS

    Rovertym Engineering

  8. #18
    2door grover Guest
    Nice site! With the rear disconnects for the springs, they won't let me run a air bellow will they? I will be running them for when i have a big load in. Has any one run one to go on the out side the spring like a guide/ reducer for the spring to follow?

    I like the look of the rear shock mounts as well, that is what i was thinking i would have to fab up in the 1st place to run the long shocks.

  9. #19
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by 2door grover View Post
    Nice site! With the rear disconnects for the springs, they won't let me run a air bellow will they? I will be running them for when i have a big load in. Has any one run one to go on the out side the spring like a guide/ reducer for the spring to follow?

    I like the look of the rear shock mounts as well, that is what i was thinking i would have to fab up in the 1st place to run the long shocks.
    I am working on a setup now for my Project 89 to allow bellow or air bags. Going to retain spring to top. Can't say much more as engineers hate it

  10. #20
    2door grover Guest
    What about using some thing like a pipe reducer plumbers use to go from 75- 150 mm pipe on the top mount? Would have to be bigger and not plastic but same idea. Spring would be bolted in the bottom mount and as it comes back up the spring goes in the big end and just guides it back the the mount. It would have to be long maybe 50-80 mm.

    Whats the dia of the spring? i'll go talk to a mate over the weekend and see what there is about.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!