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Can be engine to chassis, Chassis to body, These two usually show up with head lights being dull, fan, wipers slow etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by StuRR80
Also may be the ever troblesome printed circuit on cluster :mad:, Or earthing to cluster. To find an earth leak conect - (black) on multimeter to Bat - and + (red) multimeter to sus bad earth point then work your way back. If there is a bad leakege you will get a reading.
Hope I make sense;)
Tony
Swapped the resistor from the other cluster. Made minimal difference, so I guess the next things to check are the earthings and then, if nothing, spend some money for a new thermostat!
Thanks for you help guys.
Hi Stu,Quote:
Originally Posted by StuRR80
Does it read that high right from start up? If it does and stays in one place the wires could be round the wrong way to the gauge.
My oil pressure gauge does the same and I know that's the prob, but I'm too slack to fix it.
cheers, DL
Hi DL,
It does take it's time getting to that point, so it does show the motor actually warming up.
I don't think there's much to go wrong with the wires (other than them becoming brittle and snapping as my oil pressure one did! :eek:) because there's only one wire for the sensor which basically runs via the loom to the back of the cluster and plugs (still only one connector) to the back of the gauge.
Cheers
Hi,
That first photo shows the oil temp sender (light green wire), oil pressure warning switch (white with brown tracer) and oil pressure sender (light green, brown tracer).
The water temp sender is up top near the front of the motor with a green wire, blue tracer. The light green wire going to the back of the water gauge comes from the voltage stabilizer. It's in the right spot, goes from there to the fuel gauge as well.
cheers, DL
Just testing!! :wasntme: :angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
I don't know why I put that one up. Trying to do too many things at once, probably.
I've taken a couple of pics now and whilst doing so, I might see what the issue is. As LPG's installed, there seems to be green wires going everywhere. Perhaps it's not the right green wire connection after all?!!
When I get a chance, I'll unwrap the tape and track where the wires run. Just quickly looking at it, that green wire might lead to the solenoid (or whatever it is?) for the LPG near the piping coil. The last pic shows the othert green wire which ends up at the LPG electronic switch.
I'll get there one day whith all this electric/ mechanicy stuff!:(
OK. Checked the wiring and beside a dodgy solder and extension on the lead, I think it is actually connected to the right wire. I guess I wouldn't be getting a reading on the dash if it wasn't?!
I pulled the green wire off the back of the cluster and the temperature stayed where it was. Is this wire the earth? I had my voltmeter (not that I can actually diagnose what it's telling me - too many symbols!) on the "sticking out bit" directly behind the temp gauge which gave numerous readings. :confused:
Other than that, I'm not sure what else to check, other than to replace the thermostat or the printed circuit (which has definitely seen better days) but at GBP70.00, I'd hope to get away without replacing it!
The fuel and temp are constantly powered and the sensor is a variable resister to earth. You need to make sure are no earth leaks. On the power side the Voltage stablizer do pulse (I think)so may be hard to read with a digi meter.Quote:
Originally Posted by StuRR80
when the temp is hot feel the top hose. If just unpleasent to touch is around 80 to 90 deg. If cold thermostat is stuck or no H20. If scalding hot and hose soggy is overheating. Just a rough gide with old gear we have here with no engine protection.
If I get time I will post up resistance of the temp sensor in my old Rangies at running temp. You will need to know how to drive a multi meter to do this.
Tony
Just tried to add photos and the computer jammed up after writing a lovely little story...... :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by StuRR80
So just the basics this time....
Is there a trick to fitting a windscreen seal? I seem to have a large gap between the edge o fthe seal and the windscreen.
I tried to fit the seal to the car first bit the bottom edge of the seal was longer than the frame so I couldn't get it sitting properly so I took the seal off and turned the windscreen upside down and tried to fit the seal that way and got the gap - see attached photo.
So, is there a trick to this or is the seal just the wrong size?
The seal was bought from a ruputable (I think) business in Victoria which specialises in rubber for older vehicles, so I would have assumed it to be the right size ... but maybe not?
TIA
Stu
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/05/1472.jpg
Sorry guys, I can't get the image to imbed in this thread so here's the link to get an idea of the gap. Ruler is in inches.
DSC_2794.jpg picture by yacatac - Photobucket