Need Help!!!! or this is a ad for cheap rangie for sale!

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Originally Posted by British Bulldog

but one slight prob Mike its a electronic dizzy.

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Same procedure ... except

Take the cap off .... Set the motor onto the 6 degrees of crank
Note where the rotor button is ... this is the position on lead #1
Put the cap with Lead #1 .... back onto the dizzy
Put a spark plug onto lead and place it on the motor (earthed out)
Turn ignition on
Move the dizzy Anti clockwise for a bit .... Then reverse to set it up
When you turn dizzy (clockwise) ... The spark plug will "spark"
This is now the set position for 6 degrees



To test what the current timing position is now ......
Roll the crank onto TDC ... Turn ignition on .... Roll crank forward till the spark plug fires .... Stop ... Look at the Timing mark position and this will tell you what degree it is set at

Mike

:)

Thank you all very much but I believe I have found the problem yet the solution still evades me. I set the timing swapped out the fried starter motor for one off the wreck and what a bonus find its a Magnetti. :eek: Tried starting still starts and run for 5 secs but then stalls. So I was playing and pumped sh*t loads of fuel with the accelerator down its guts and noticed that there was fuel pooling up on the manifold on one side. AH (light bulb moment) the adapter plate is not sealing correctly on that corner letting in too much air. Thus I have found the problem WHOO!!!:D But now the solution is even more of a puzzle. I can hear it now just pull of carby and tighten down some more, I wish. As the mounting hard ware that came with the adapter plate was really strange basically is one piece of thread with two different thread sizes either end. So I screwed the nuts down one side of the thread and then screwed them into the manifold with vise grips til tight and then cut the excess off. So now there is no way humanly possible to get them back out I have tried trust me. because the hole they sit in on the adapter plate is hex shaped and same size as nut therefore it won't turn. So my next is solution is a bit backyard and bushie in method but I am hoping it will get car going and hold for this weekend coming has I have a trip away that I must attend. This solution is good old fashioned silicon smeared and jammed in edge of adapter plate till no more leak.
Thanks again for all your help. Hopefully in a few hours I will have a rangie that runs aleast on petrol will worry about LPG after that.

Regards
Kris

I'm pretty sure that regular silicon is not fuel proof and will 'melt' / disappear very quickly. RTV Silicon would be better, but to be honest you're better off taking this thing apart again.

If you can get a drill to the top of the threaded studs, then drill a hole in them and extract with a suitably sized stud extractor.

If any thread is left showing then lock two nuts together on the thread and turn them together. In fact this is the best way to insert threaded studs rather than shafting them with vice grips.

Jon

Thanks to everyone for your help I have it going and going well. Its running cooler than it ever has its great. Starts first turn of key on both LPG and petrol its great. The problem was the adapter plate. Got new bolts and a new thicker gasket.
I am so happy that it going.
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
One last question should I advance the timing anymore than the 6 Degress that it is at or not? It does seem to lack a little power.

The bonnet just now has a little extra bow in the middle but nothing to bad you can hardly notice it.

Thanks again for all the help

Regards
Kris

For the benefit of others on the timing thing, two pages from the manual which should be helpful... technically....

Hi, im not a mechanic but have had several lpg cars 4x4's etc.
When you said you put in a new carby did it have vacum secondaries as my old mechanic said when i was looking for a new carb 4 my 5.0v8 statesman do not get anything with a vacum as gas would not work on it (ended up with a holly 650 DP).