Thread: tie down points

I used marine stainless loops that I bought at Whitworths, and I rivetted them to the uprights next to the tailgate and also on the sides in front and behind the spare wheel and the other side.

I used large 6MM? steel rivets which are quite a challenge to hand rivet, and have a load rating of something like 400Newtons.

I also have some on my fridge slide ( which is attached by 8MM High tensile bolts to a 3/16 steel plate which is attached to the floor by 4 rivets at each end) and have put some on the slope in front of the back seat.
They are neat, unobtrusive and very strong.
Not sur ethat this is teh exact size but you get the idea.
Whitworths Marine: RF1055 Saddle Plain 1/4'' - Stainless Steel
Regards Philip A

Thanks for the info Philip A.
I hadn't thought of putting them on the uprights. Sounds easier using rivets than trying to use bolts to fix the brackets.
Still, it seems a bit of an oversight by the RR designers not to have some there already.

Anthony

Agree, it does seem odd.

RR P38A's have a LR OEM kit for tie down points in the boot... make a hole in the carpet, puch out the plastic plug, and screw-in the bolt and tie down point. Freelanders have them as a standard fitting. Go figure? You'd reckon "the Maker" would have thought this a useful inclusion in the RRC.

I like PhilipA's suggestion for rivets on the uprights... this should work in the P38A too.

Cheers, Paul.

See how I did my Classic tiedowns toward the bottom of this page:

Ron's Range Rover Classic Modifications

Because I have the rear seat out of mine I bolted Mitsubishi van tie downs to the seat belt anchor points. I have the fridge slide on the passenger side and adjacent to this have riveted 2 peices of aluminimum angle into the channels of the floor to serve as guide rails for the plastic tubs that I use for my gear. The whole lot is held down with 2 ratchet tie downs. I have also riveted a couple of those Stainless saddles that Phillip talks of.