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Thread: AUX Battery power to a fridge in RRC

  1. #11
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    I run along the alloy sill plates, very painful to fit them right, but I have 12Vsupply, Amp supply and RCA's

    My 12V outlets are on the rear seat catch thingy's pointing up
    Never tried to hook an AMP that way in case the AUX power feed back to the head unit via the switching signal wire. Obviously it doesn't
    I need to move mine off the floor anyway as hates water.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Never tried to hook an AMP that way in case the AUX power feed back to the head unit via the switching signal wire. Obviously it doesn't
    I need to move mine off the floor anyway as hates water.
    Huh? I got an amp supply AND a 12V direct from the auxillary batt, along with RCA's and signal wire for the Amplifier...hooked up as you would in any other car

  3. #13
    richard4u2 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Ah... I see why now. Acts like a RF filter
    clever buggers at engel

  4. #14
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    My aux battery is in the back and connected to the main through a 150 Amp redarc, and 50 amp wire. Nice and simple and within 5 mins can have the Aux battery and fridge out of the car and in the tent. Using a second hand 750CCA battery in a supercrap battery box, I can run the fridge for 3 days without charging, and when it finally discharges, it only takes 5 mins to secure it back in the car and charge it back up. Made on a budget and works perfectly.

    Cheers
    Cheers,

    Ben.

    Team W4 - WEBSITE


  5. #15
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by whitakerb View Post
    My aux battery is in the back and connected to the main through a 150 Amp redarc, and 50 amp wire. Nice and simple and within 5 mins can have the Aux battery and fridge out of the car and in the tent. Using a second hand 750CCA battery in a supercrap battery box, I can run the fridge for 3 days without charging, and when it finally discharges, it only takes 5 mins to secure it back in the car and charge it back up. Made on a budget and works perfectly.

    Cheers
    I actually nearly went this way at first... I even purchased the battery box. Not much room in the back of a rangie so the AUX battery ended up in the front for this reason only. Would be very practical otherwise.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    I actually nearly went this way at first... I even purchased the battery box. Not much room in the back of a rangie so the AUX battery ended up in the front for this reason only. Would be very practical otherwise.
    I have permanently removed the back seats in my rangie, and have a square tube bulkhead across where the front of the back seat would be. But if i had to put the back seats back in then i would have to put a smaller battery into the engine bay. (750CCA fouls on the rdiator bracket)

    Cheers
    Cheers,

    Ben.

    Team W4 - WEBSITE


  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crackerjack View Post
    I personally would run a live and an earth from the battery running under the car tucked up inside the chassis rail and enter the car through the floor in the rear via a nice tight grommet, I think you need to run an earth, once you start running wires in the car you seem to need loads, running under the car is a nice straight run, you could use much heavier wire than 6mm too.
    Why? Your battery -ve always goes straight to the body and chassis..... why would you need to bring all the -ve leads back to the battery??
    Your earth point should be as close to the item as possible. You earth it straight to the body or chassis (or both). Running the -ve cable all the way back to the battery is pointless and a waste of $$ on cable.

    As for cable size, every good fridge manufacturer will have minimum recommendations on cable sizing and install requirements. Just do what they suggest and add a bit more if you want.

    Cheers

    Andrew

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    Why? Your battery -ve always goes straight to the body and chassis..... why would you need to bring all the -ve leads back to the battery??
    Your earth point should be as close to the item as possible. You earth it straight to the body or chassis (or both). Running the -ve cable all the way back to the battery is pointless and a waste of $$ on cable.

    As for cable size, every good fridge manufacturer will have minimum recommendations on cable sizing and install requirements. Just do what they suggest and add a bit more if you want.

    Cheers

    Andrew
    No its a good idea, prevents any hassle from resistive body/chassis earths

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    No its a good idea, prevents any hassle from resistive body/chassis earths
    So clean the contacts first and seal them properly.
    And its actually not better. The vehicle chassis and body are an earth plane with far more ability to conduct power than down and back on a pair of cables. Same reason when you jump start a car, you don't put both jumper leads to both terminals. Your earth always goes to engine or chassis as it will create an electrical path over the whole vehicle power system rather than concentrating it on the battery.
    Ask any electrician.

    Cheers

    Andrew.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    So clean the contacts first and seal them properly.
    And its actually not better. The vehicle chassis and body are an earth plane with far more ability to conduct power than down and back on a pair of cables. Same reason when you jump start a car, you don't put both jumper leads to both terminals. Your earth always goes to engine or chassis as it will create an electrical path over the whole vehicle power system rather than concentrating it on the battery.
    Ask any electrician.

    Cheers

    Andrew.
    What about the rest of the earth points, you gonna clean and seal them properly to, they use the vehicle body as an earth as it saves costs

    You place the Neg lead on the engine becuase in theory it prevents ECU harming surges

    The terms you use show some negligence towars electrickery, an electrical path over the whole vehicle? Current will always take the path of least resistance, nor do you conduct power....but anyway

    Look either/or will usually be ample, one you know it will work, the other just hope your body/chassis earthing is good.......not that rovers ever have earthing problems

    Oh yea, I asked myself, being an Lektrishan and all

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