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Thread: Engine running but fails to proceed?

  1. #11
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    I have left the car with a trusty mechanic, former RRc owner and fellow AuLRO member and handed all your info. He seems to think at a minimum the box will have to out although he will check the shaft on the VC unit first.

    We have spoken about the later ZF boxes and decisions will be made when it's out, the failure identified, the options and prices for boxes collated.

    It's a good thing that I thought to pre-position my back-up RRc in the next suburb to the mechanic! My friend, who lost the loan is not so sure about it though now that he is on Shank's pony!

    My only consolation is that in the several decades that I have owned Vague, I have saved a lot of money not buying the latest but often not all-that-much-more-reliable model. Probably something in the order of better than $0.2 - $0.3 million, you can do a lot of maintenance in the $70,000.00 you don't spend buying every 4 or 5 years!

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  2. #12
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Onya

    The auto is a (obvious) first place of suspect .... but I thought you could do with an plausible alternative .....

    I put that photo up on the shagged spline as , all tho it looks just about sheered, it actually was working OK ... I just happen to stumble over it when searching for something else ...It was jambed into the gears of the center diff and had to be bashed out with a very large hammer

    So I can only "imagine" that if it did go, that it would be silent in it's failure, as it would just round the splines completely off
    That shaft pictured, was about 250 000 K's old

    BUT I'm also leaning, as B92 8NW has said, on a sus Auto .... If I was to upgrade, I would look at the 94 Disco (area) and grab everything from the back of the motor to the end of the tailshafts and give it a upgrade to the lt230 transfer box

    I would expect the BW to be on it's way to failure, and if so, and you wanted to keep it original .... then I would order a replacement recon unit, imported directly from Ashcroft UK

    love your train of thought of what you have saved, rather than what you have spent .....


    Mike

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    O.K. Gurus

    Last evening on the way home from work Vague, my 1985 RRc, let me down. Basically slowing for a set of lights which changed to green as I approached, put my foot on the accelerator but didn't seem to have full drive. Emergency roll around corner into side street using remaining momentum.

    No forward drive in high or low range but seemed to have reverse. Then It seemed to have reduced forward drive in low range neutral, but eventually that went also.

    Had difficulty reversing up tilt tray even in low range.

    How expensive will this be?????

    1985 RRc - 4.6 efi, ZF auto, BW viscous transfer.

    Diana
    Is the vehicle really a 1985 model.
    If it is and you are running a 4.6 with the 4hp22 auto they would be a bad thing.
    The 1985 model should have an LT230? not the BW. Sounds like an 1995 model

  4. #14
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    if you're really lucky (assuming its not low oil)its a sticking valve body and youre not developing pressure to fully lock up the first clutch pack.

    This is fixable with an extensive flush/replace oil/filter procedure.

    If its other than that its generally a box out and overhaul.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
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    Sounds awfully like a Sprag clutch failure to me Diana. The reverse drive although poor and the ability to get a little forward drive can be the correct symptoms for this type of failure. Some models of the 4HP22 in RR's and D1's had a PLASTIC sprag housing...

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #16
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    excuse the high jack, whats a sprag clucth and A clutch
    thanks ian

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by buzz66 View Post
    Is the vehicle really a 1985 model.
    If it is and you are running a 4.6 with the 4hp22 auto they would be a bad thing.
    The 1985 model should have an LT230? not the BW. Sounds like an 1995 model
    Errrrrr Argggghhhhhh!

    So you are suggesting that I don't know what my Vague actually is, are you?

    I have no answer to that suggestion that wouldn't be rude!

    Why would a ZF and 4.6 be a bad thing?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  8. #18
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    what hes getting at is this.

    so far as I know only the 3.5 was available in aus in 85

    the auto in that version of the rangie is not as robust as the later ones. If you were to retrofit a 4.6 onto that auto you will kill it as its not rated for the oomph the 4.6 has got (it will deal with it for a while though).

    IF however youve made a typo and your rangie is a 95 which has a later version of the ZF in it thats a different case.

    If youve dropped the whole shebang late model 4.6 with its zf into an early model thats a different story again.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddymech View Post
    excuse the high jack, whats a sprag clucth and A clutch
    thanks ian
    Hi Ian,

    Ashtrans would be able to give a better description, but here goes...
    The Sprag clutch is basically a 1 way clutch, it is simply a housing with a rotating centre member that is locked up in 1 direction of rotation by the action of cam shaped elements between the inner and outer surfaces of the 'drum' shaped housing. The stupid idea of using plastics to construct a member that can and does transfer a fair bit of force is beyond me
    The early 4HP22's in RRC's etc and many other vehicles such as Jag and BMW, Volvo etc were mostly steel, only plastics were used later on, I think from about 1995 odd?
    An 'A' clutch is forward clutch pack, numbered rather like A pillar, B pillar etc etc.
    Anyway, as Dave says usually fitting a 4.6 infront of a 4hp22 can spell disaster if driven HARD, but mine handled it just fine it was eventually the 4BD1T that killed 2 of them

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #20
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    cmon JC, I expected better.

    try this...

    a sprag clutch is a one way clutch. IF you've ever used a pull start to start a lawn mower, chainsaw or whipper snipper then you've aware of what a sprag clutch does for you.

    plastic cams were put in to act as a "fuse" just like the panzy pushrod in the clutch assembly in the manual versions of our vehicles costly in the way that if they let go you have to pull the box down but not as expensive as having to replace the whole damn thing before the housing got deformed. Why they couldnt have put in something easier to fix I dont know but you also pick up the bonous of when they start to frag they dont send metal filings to go be disruptive friends with things like your bearings and clutch packs.

    auto gear boxes use planetary gear sets to achive their various gears. if there is more than one planetary gear set they are sequenced in some way, Primary secondary and reverse, 1st 2nd 3rd, A B C. there is various ways of actuating the parts of a planetary gear set and in autos its usually done with clutch packs and brake bands. the A clutch pack is a clutch mechanism that acts on the A planetary gearset of an auto. Its just like the clutch in a manual car in the way that it works but its assembley is different, its also a wet clutch. The A pack clutch is usually the most importatnt as it holds the first planetary gear set. If it lets go (depending on the configuration of the box) you either get no drive or reverse gear only.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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