Another one on Wheels and Tyres

265/75/16 on the standard offset rims, adjust the steering lock stops on the swivel balls, 2" lift & see what happens - slowly, when you find a big enough hole to articulate into.

Std springs are fairly soft, and the spring rate will allow the coil to fully compress to the bump stops.
2" lifted springs generally have a a stiffer rate, and unless the car is fully loaded, or traveling fast over serious holes, will often not fully compress or will coil bind before getting to the bumpstops. It is worthwhile spacing the bumpstops to also prevent the shocks (if much longer than std) from bottoming out.
The other thing with 2" lifted springs is that the axle pivot point is further away from the body to start with, so the wheel is 'tucked in' to the arch at a lower position, giving a bit of clearance to the 12o'clock door shut area & rear guard back edge. (we are talking RRC here - Disco 1 is much smaller in the rear of the rear arch)

The bolt thread Philip mentions might need a tickle. (seatbelt mount - so leave as much thickness as you can, more of a 'rounding of the edges' of the nut, with the thread level with the end of the nut)
I doubt you will have problems with the rear of the rear guard opening, the door edge lip could do with a folding over.
A less offset rim than the standard pos 33 is likely to place the outside edge of the tyre under the rear door shut - definate cutting & some sort of flare required.

I have a 1986 RRC with 238/85/16 A/Ts on ES Disco 1 alloys (33 pos offset) with 2" Ridepro springs - 6014 front & 6015 rear - could be a little firm for some used to std suspension, but no need for sway bars https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2015/12/13.jpg
25mm 'Terrafirma' (from Rovacreft) bumpstop spacers in the rear, with dislocation cones (also Terrafirma) and Ridepro 80 series Landcruiser front shocks all round = really great flex.
No cutting of car anywhere, no rubbing anywhere - after adjusting axle steering lock stops.

Rgs, LR4WD

So the wheels and tyres went on today. 265/75 on zero offset steel rims.

First little bit of rubbing was on the plastic sill trim under normal road driving conditions. Junior hacksaw sorted that out.

Will be looking for a ramp or rut somewhere to test at full articulation.

Main problem is a fairly serious vibration at over 70kph. I'm guessing this is either steering rod ends or wheel bearing. I doubt it's just the damper.

I'll keep my feedback up so that Razzor has a comparison for his sticky.

Neil

When did the vibration start, with the new rims & tyres ? If so check them first. Worn or loose bearings will be exacerbated by the tyre/rim imbalance or runout.

Yeah, the vibration has only been since the new rims went on, before that there was no vibration at all.

Will be taking it back in to see if they forgot to balance one of the wheels. Think I'll get them to turn the ponsey white writing to the other side too.

70g weight missing off one of the fronts, that would do it!:wasntme:

Much better looking now with the white lettering turned inside to.

See how she looks here. :D

Hoping to get out at the weekend to test for any contact after cutting the guards and putting the flares on. I've measured from the bump stops (which have not been lowered yet) and it would appear it should be OK, it's only a question of whether the wider track will catch the arches.

Shakedown run went well. Threw her into a big crossaxle first off and only got a wee bit of rubbing on nearside front, turns out only because I forgot to grind the bolts holding the coil and airfilter through the front inner guard which were poking through about 30mm. Otherwise all good.

I trimmed as suggested on rangerovers.net as posted by a fellow Scot using the same tyres but keeping the +33 offset whereas I went with zero. I trimed way more, right up to the top fold In the arch panel, about 50mm all told. It's still tight but just goes, any bigger tyres and it'll need a body lift for sure. On that point, rangerovers.net has some great tips on tyre size compatibility, just be aware that it will all depend on your spring rate, wheel offest, bump stop location etc. etc. what the outcome will be.

Rangerovers.net recommends hand trimming with snips which i did on the front guards, however I found this too difficult and required intermittent perpendicular cuts which left a jagged profile when folded in.

On the rear guards I went to the 4" flexible cutting disc which worked really well if you take your time. A stepped cut, more on the inner skin, of the rear door worked well and folded in on itself well with the hammer. The paint sure didn't fair so well though. The inner rear guard I cut back about 75mm (above the recess for the rubber) and folded outward. I covered the sharp edge with the now surplus door rubber by siliconing on to protect little fingers.

The cheap eBay rubber flares were really easy to fit, if you're going to do it see if you can get some black anodized tec screws to hide them.

If anyone wants photos, let me know of what stage. Otherwise see the members rides posts for the end result. I'm pleased how it all went, particularly as I'm a pen pusher with little hands on skills.

Cheers,

Neil

Seems I will be sending you a PM soon ;)

After doing some pretty hard tracks I have found the rear are running @ 12 o'clock - no major damage done but I may as well bite the bullet & cut'em up :)

The other day I purchased a spare set of Disco 1/Defender xtreme alloys to use on my '92 RRc. (Only because I prefer the look of the xtreme alloys over the HiLine alloys.)

The interesting bit is that there were 3 different tyre sizes on the rims. One of the sizes were a pair of 245/75 BFG's with a decent amount of tread remaining the other tyres were rubbish.

Can I fit the 245/75s to the '92 RRc? It has uprated springs, but I doubt it would be 2" but possibly close to.

Again, you can't look at tyre size alone, must be considered in conjunction with offset. While spring lift helps in light use larger tyres may require lengthening of the bump stops to avoid contact with inner guards etc.

245/75 on a 16" rim work out about 30" tall so only 1" more than stock I think.

As long as the extreme wheels are similar in offset to the originals which were +33mm then you should be OK as far as I can work out. The offset should be stamped on the rim.

The main place to look out for is the rear wing fixing at 12 o'clock on tyre position.

I think you'll be fine with this size on standard offset as long as your not going out aiming for ultimate articulation.

Let us all know how it pans out.

Neil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These rims:

http://images.ecarlist.com/photos/10...205/640/00.jpg

Instead of these rims:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...10/05/1358.jpg

Just so both of my vehicles look like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/05/410.jpg

I didn't think there was a difference.