What did you do on your Perentie Today.

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Originally Posted by BadCo.

What do you mean by quench?

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After they dip the steel into the molten zinc, they bring it out and dip it into some kind of light oil to cool it quickly (that's quenching). Occasionally you'll pick up a freshly galvanised piece to load it and a bit of the oil will run out. I don't suppose it is for any kind of heat treatment of the coating and is probably just so they can handle the pieces without waiting for them to cool and get them out of the way quickly.

The quick cooling of the steel is - anecdotally - what causes warping. I'm no metallurgist though.

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Originally Posted by Dervish

The quick cooling of the steel is - anecdotally - what causes warping. I'm no metallurgist though.

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It's actually the temperature gradient that causes warping. When there is a significant temperature difference between two near points on a steel sheet.


If you can cool the steel evenly, no warping.

Well I finally got around to installing the tacho, boost and egt gauges and couldn't wait to play with the fuel screw. 1/2 turn out saw a considerable improvement in performance so I went a bit more and made it a full turn. Noticeable improvement in pickup and boost will now go up to 13psi without any increase in egt's. Will even accellerate going up a reasonable hill now. Don't think I will bother going down the path of intercooler and turbo upgrade. Still may go to 4.1 diff ratios tho. I think the tacho is pretty accurate, showing about 3000rpm @100K. Will be interesting to see if it affects the fuel economy - I have a big trip on next week, will find out then!

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Originally Posted by Bearman

Nice job, what about the shock towers - you should have included those, they are notorious for rusting as the water stays in the recess in the top where the shockie bolts in.

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Like you say Brian, the shock towers are a rust risk. I galed mine. However they hung them by a bolt hole at the base up side down so at an angle, which meant there was an angled chunk of gal that settled inside at the top where the rubber bush sits.

I had to get it ground down on a lathe.

But not a sign of rust.

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Originally Posted by rar110

Like you say Brian, the shock towers are a rust risk. I galed mine. However they hung them by a bolt hole at the base up side down so at an angle, which meant there was an angled chunk of gal that settled inside at the top where the rubber bush sits.

I had to get it ground down on a lathe.

But not a sign of rust.

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Exactly the same thing happened with the ones on my old 4x4 when they galled them. They must hang them at an angle when they come out of the dip.

Gday,
I just fitted power steering.
Does a Defender steering wheel fit?
Paul.

I broke it.
The electrics are dead.

Quite a productive day, I thought. Job was done really quickly. A matter of seconds.

Now for the non productive part. Fixing it. Could take hours, days, weeks.

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

I broke it.
The electrics are dead.

Quite a productive day, I thought. Job was done really quickly. A matter of seconds.

Now for the non productive part. Fixing it. Could take hours, days, weeks.

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Whoops!

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Originally Posted by paulak

Gday, I just fitted power steering. Does a Defender steering wheel fit? Paul.

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AFAIK no. The spline on the hard steering wheel is different to the newer 200/300tdi steering wheel. You need to change the shaft too. The spline at the steering uni end is the same.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

I broke it.
The electrics are dead.

Quite a productive day, I thought. Job was done really quickly. A matter of seconds.

Now for the non productive part. Fixing it. Could take hours, days, weeks.

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What happened?