Perentie clutch

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Originally Posted by RoboDouche

I was just throwing it around wasn't serious I'm a sucker for keeping vehicles original anyway.

I would like a turbo though!

You guys tried turning the idle up a little to get rid of the low idle shakes?

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Just don't turn the idle up too far or you will find it a pain in the but when it warms up as it will race along a bit quick in first gear. I turned mine up a smidge and still turn the hand throttle up a touch until it reaches running temperature.


Cheers, Mick

Ooh! dear

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Originally Posted by Bearman

If you can smell it, it has to be slipping. Jumping out of gear usually means end float problems on the mainshaft - is it under or off throttle when it does it - my guess is off.

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Gday Brian, I’m located up near where your heart wants to be in FNQ. I’ve got a replacement clutch for my Perentie, I’ve had the old girl for nine years now and it’s starting to smell a little every time I head down to cairns and have to climb/crawl back up on the Tablelands. What’s simplest method, to change clutch in a bush setting, engine out or dismantle seat box and roll gearbox back?
Cheers in advance for your answer.

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Originally Posted by Hellonwheels

Gday Brian, I’m located up near where your heart wants to be in FNQ. I’ve got a replacement clutch for my Perentie, I’ve had the old girl for nine years now and it’s starting to smell a little every time I head down to cairns and have to climb/crawl back up on the Tablelands. What’s simplest method, to change clutch in a bush setting, engine out or dismantle seat box and roll gearbox back?
Cheers in advance for your answer.

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If you are only doing the clutch replacement, engine out is the easiest way especially out bush. Don't forget to check the rear main for leaks as well. What clutch are you putting in? If you are contemplating putting a turbo on or it has one already the best option is to go the turbo motor pressure plate like the 6x6 have in them. The clutch driven plate is the same for both vehicles. Oh and don't forget the clutch throwout bearing. If you have bought a kit and it has all these bits just make sure the clutch bearing unit is the same length as the old one. Some of them are just adding the V8 one to the kit and it won't work on the Isuzu.

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Originally Posted by Bearman

If you are only doing the clutch replacement, engine out is the easiest way especially out bush. Don't forget to check the rear main for leaks as well. What clutch are you putting in? If you are contemplating putting a turbo on or it has one already the best option is to go the turbo motor pressure plate like the 6x6 have in them. The clutch driven plate is the same for both vehicles. Oh and don't forget the clutch throwout bearing. If you have bought a kit and it has all these bits just make sure the clutch bearing unit is the same length as the old one. Some of them are just adding the V8 one to the kit and it won't work on the Isuzu.

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Gday mate,
Thanks for your reply. I’ve got some new mounts and need to flush coolant, so Engine out will be the way…will just grab a chain block first as I’m ‘out bush’. (Hmm…Wonder how much weight that steel roof beam in the shed will carry…🤣) I’m replacing with the KLR HD clutch, apparently suits 6x6 and turbo engines. Full kit with T/O Brg etc etc. forgot to buy a rear main, might grab one before I start.
Cheers.

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Originally Posted by Hellonwheels

forgot to buy a rear main, might grab one before I start.

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You have a couple of choices for the rear main oil seal:

This:

4BD1 Rear Main Oil Seal - KLR Automotive

And this:

Rear Main Oil Seal Kit 4BD1 - KLR Automotive

I have no idea which is better but I'd want the best if the engine has to come out to fit it!