Are the globes the correct type with the offset pins?Quote:
Originally Posted by DWCamo
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Are the globes the correct type with the offset pins?Quote:
Originally Posted by DWCamo
The stop light switch is mounted on the back of the brake master cylinder tower between the tower and the fire wall.
The easiest way to see it is to take the cover plate off the mc tower so that you can see inside and you will then see how it works. I would still check for shorts (and bulbs as BadCo suggested) as the switch is reliable IMO.
Regards,
Thanks fellas,
BadCo. - Yes the globes are the correct type.
Phil B - I'll advise my mechanic mate who is checking it out for me.
Further investigation today revealed that my stop light switch had broken free from its mounting position on the tower due to the end piece of plastic thread breaking off (approx 2mm). Thankfully there is still enough thread on the switch to work with so I'm planning to reassemble tomorrow. Btw, removing the broken piece of switch in the tower was a PITA due to it probably having been glued in with loctite. Fingers crossed I'll be operational again tomorrow.
Attachment 94306Attachment 94307Attachment 94308Attachment 94309Attachment 94310
It's always something tiny and almost unfindable! well done tracking that down.
By the looks of that drip on your floormat in that photo, you need a new clutch master cylinder as well.
how easy was it to take the brake booster off?
I need to get in there to clean out some rust, but have been putting it off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris078
I'm very lucky to have a mate who's a very experienced mechanic. We worked on it for quite a few hours over the weekend and I think my fuse issue is now sorted.
In a nutshell, after refitting the stop light switch and reassembling the tower we replaced the stop light globes, which at first glance appeared to be OK but were probably totally cactus inside due to being on too long (too much heat) because of the switch failure described earlier.
The drips on the floor mat are from the WD40 we sprayed on the tower bolts (x6) before undoing them. It's quite easy to remove the tower and brake booster (as one unit) after disconnecting the master cylinder from the booster (only 2 bolts).
OK, here is the final chapter in this story (finger crossed).
The fuse blew again today (grrrr) when applying the brakes so I undid the connections to the stop light switch, replaced the fuse and applied the brake pedal again. Sure enough, no more blown fuses, so I then unscrewed the stop light switch from the tower to inspect it (see photos attached). Then I had a Eureka moment. I found the short. The plastic coating on the wire was split when bent at the angle it would be subjected to in its normal position, which would allow the bare wire to contact the fire wall and short. I insulated said wire with liberal amounts of electrical tape and reconnected the stop light switch. No more blown fuses. So far so good......Attachment 94546Attachment 94547Attachment 94548
