Hori Turbo Throw Together

Made some progress yesterday.

This arrived in the post, and it fits! It has a 2" outlet so I got a 2" to 2.5" elbow for it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...15/11/1085.jpg

Heated up and bent the dip stick tube so now it bolts to the new manifold. This took a bit of trial and error with a map gas torch. Also because I had to increase the radius of the bends the dipstick is a little tricky to get in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...15/11/1086.jpg

I decided to remove the service indicator so I can shuffle the air cleaner over as much as possible. Don't be worried about the indicator being a weak point, it was a bitch to remove! I'm open to ideas of how to seal the hole I made haha. Might just silicone it, the rubber elbow should cover it and the clamp will be directly over it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...15/11/1087.jpg

Dummy fit. Those clamps aren't cheap!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...15/11/1088.jpg

Very nice Bad!!
Great report, keep it coming

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingsy

Will this fit over the top of the acoustic cover with the standard bonnet?

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no, you'll need a Puma style bonnet. I did it over the top of the acoustic cover on mine with the puma bonnet. (different brand intercooler but the same hight)

Looking awesome Badco!

Mine sucks the indicator through under any conditions on boost so you're not going to be missing much by removing it.

Clever idea to switch the heater matrix over - wish I'd thought of that! ahha would have saved me a heap of grief. I found that the heater was full of air as it was higher than the bleed point - installed a little bleed point on a T at the matrix... not sure if it gets cold up your way if you need more heat I'd recommend the mod.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flagg

Looking awesome Badco!

Mine sucks the indicator through under any conditions on boost so you're not going to be missing much by removing it.

Clever idea to switch the heater matrix over - wish I'd thought of that! ahha would have saved me a heap of grief. I found that the heater was full of air as it was higher than the bleed point - installed a little bleed point on a T at the matrix... not sure if it gets cold up your way if you need more heat I'd recommend the mod.

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Yeah I heard most people with snorkels trigger the indicator.

I'll keep the bleed mod in mind. The whole cooling system needs a proper filler/bleed point and a drain on the radiator

Small update!

I have tapped the EGT thermocouple hole (1/8th NPT).

Got a steel -10an fitting and welded it to the drain.

The brass bit is an adapter that goes into the block in place of the vacuum pump oil feed banjo, and tee's out to a -4an fitting and the vacuum pump oil feed banjo.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/11/826.jpg

Also, they ran out of blue silicone hoses. So I am stuck with pink :S


Hopefully this weekend I'll glue the fittings together and put them on the engine. I can also do the ducting from the turbo adapter to the dummy WTA IC.

Theeeen, I just need to do the AN pipes between all the fittings and wait for the other pink hoses to arrive. Still need to buy an EGT gauge to block the hole and then I can test run!

Oh I forgot we also changed the fan belt and thermostat (plus seal). I'm half way through the battery isolator and still have to redo the gearbox and transfer case breathers.

Ok I've had a bit of **** luck lately.

When I finally got all the intake bits they ended fouling on the poor installed factory slave cylinder line.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/11/333.jpg

So fine, what ever, I'll cut it our and put a flex line in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H0...Y=w693-h923-no

A mechanic mate said I could borrow his flaring tool so hell yeah, saves me buying a tool I'll use once.

Picked it up and its a metric kit, and I think I need 1/4". FFS.

Ok fine, what ever, onto the next job until I source a tube flare kit.

Turbo oil drain.

Original plan was to use a -10an drain because I got a alumium flange off trademe that fit my turbo and was -10an.

Went to the HoseShop and got the bits to make the hose. Attached it to the previously made flange plate for the block.

..oh good, it fouls on the starter motor. Not just a bit too, there is bugger all chance of making that elbow fit or anything with a -10an nut on it. FFS!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Un...4=w693-h923-no

So, I need a new plan for the drain, I also need to buy a tube flare kit. Good times.

IMO a proper fitted hose for the drain isn't required. There's no pressure to deal with so a some decent hose, barbed or beaded fittings and a couple of clamps will do the job well. Bonus is that its much less bulky than hose fittings so easier to run.

Keep at it, you're getting close to the whistle, smoke and smile stage now :)

Steve

Yeah I'm thinking of grinding off the -10an fitting and welding or threading an elbow barb straight on it

Cheers SteveG

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