Perentie window felt - how to replace it.

I will be drilling and replacing those tailgate rivets, they seem to have been for the number plates, and they have nearly cost me a kneecap ligament a few times already.

I bought some hard rubber to glue over the various bolts/rivets that poke through the tailgate.
About to pull it all apart as it needs repainting and many of the rivets holding it together have broken off inside and rattle around over every bump.

That tutorial looks great. I actually ordered some new window felt a few weeks ago and have been looking for how to replace it.

Now I just need to work out how to stop the tops of windows rattling.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chris078

[I]I will be ... <snip>
...
That tutorial looks great. I actually ordered some new window felt a few weeks ago and have been looking for how to replace it.

Now I just need to work out how to stop the tops of windows rattling.

---

You fix the rattles by fitting new (or rejuvenating old) top felts.

The whole job replacing felts takes less than an hour per window.

one tip is to have a hooked tool to get the felts out, I used a pair of circlip pliers to get under the felt and then a pair of fine point pliers to grab it and pull it out.

Other than that its an easy job.

While you've got the top disassembled its worthwhile modifying the window lock mechanism.

The window lock works by using the tongue at the top to wedge into a gap in the runners of the two panes. It wears and no longer works.

• A temporary fix is to cut (or file) down the shoulders of the mechanism, being careful not to cut out the base of the pyramid. (the red line at the top)
• Then wedge a piece about 2mm-3mm of hard plastic or metal into the gap in the cam device. (The black bordered red trapezoid shape)

Diana :)

Is this what you need, Bailey channel?

I saw it being sold for Perenties at KLR Automotive so I took a pic.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/602.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by p38arover

Is this what you need, Bailey channel?

I saw it being sold for Perenties at KLR Automotive so I took a pic.

---

I should've asked for a finder's fee :D It's great stuff, I haven't had rattles from the windows since I installed it

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/607.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by p38arover

Is this what you need, Bailey channel?

I saw it being sold for Perenties at KLR Automotive so I took a pic.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/602.jpg

---

Probably. it's just the tops of the windows that rattle together. I have a small rubber wedge that I jam between them at the moment that keeps them quiet,but it's an ugly solution.
Thanks.

available from Clark Rubber - it's called Bailley Channel!!!!!!

Think I might get me some of that stuff.
doortops might get disassembled again soon as I still have some leaks in the wrong places.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

If you have leaks in the wrong places, take a look at the rubber insert between the door top and the door bottom. There should be a couple of cut-outs in the rubber that run to the outside to allow the water inside the door top to run outside the vehicle.

Quite often you find that the rubber is fitted with the cut-outs to the inside which directs the water onto the driver's Right leg or passenger's Left leg. :mad:

I had worked out the drainage system there.

It appears to be weeping in between the seal.

What I was really getting at was that I may modify this system and avoid having water in the door altogether.

Weather that be by addibg drain pipes or by drilling side facing drain holes in the channel and blocking the old.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

I have been thinking of some thick "O" rings around the big fixing bolts top and bottom of the rubber insert. The hope is that if the size is correct it will both protect the bolt from corrosion and stop the water running around under the door top.

Some of the old series Landy door tops, had a hole drilled in the outside bottom corner at each end of the door. The problem is that it both let water out and more back in, which increased the rusting of the door tops.

What gets me is that in 1957 Land Rover door tops had galvanised frames. Later the same year they changed to Series 2 with the door tops unprotected inside and they have been rusting ever since. Bloody bean counters. :mad:

P.S. Not a problem for Perentie/Wolf door tops.