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If you have to remove/clean/disassemble and repair it nothing is going to be cheap Chris. Just to remove, clean and disassemble it will take a couple of days if done properly. That's a lot of labour cost then there is the cost of any parts, reassemble and reinstall plus the new clutch, machine the flywheel, new rear engine seal, modified pivot, new slave and master while you're at it. I think I know of the mob Paul talked about.
Thanks BrianQuote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
Just replaced the clutch master and slave so that's a couple less things.
Pretty sure I'm just going to leave it. As you say, any work on a box is a huge job, which makes maintenance not really financially viable. reckon I just keep driving it till it dies !
It doesn't make any noise and changes fairly smoothly. tossing up weather to change to VMX 80 or 75/90 gear oil instead of the engine oil to eek out some more life from the box.
I've had a few people try and talk me into it, but I'm yet to be convinced.
My plan was to have both of the Perenties getting fresh new clutches, pressure plates and throw out bearings. While that was pulled I would have new main seals installed. I didn't think about having the Flywheel machined but will now. I also didn't know about modifying the pivot so that would also need to be done plus the new slave and master cylinder while its out. I would want both the trans and T case gone thru to make sure they are in top shape. I want these vehicles to last while we are out in the bush. I definitely don't want to have any mechanical issues that could have been avoided with a thourogh going over. Thank you guys for your help. Getting closer to Australia every day. This years work will determine when I can leave. Hope its a busy year for me.
Chris, DEFINITELY don't put gear oil in the gearbox - it won't last long if you do. The thicker oil destroys the oil pump drive shaft (it's made out of Bakelite type material) and the mainshaft will suffer from oil starvation on the thrusts and rollers. There is a replacement steel oil pump available that I fit when I do a box. If I were you I would be looking for a s/hand military box (maybe from the auctions) and slowly go through it and have it ready to fit by the time yours dies. Otherwise get yours fixed up properly before too much goes wrong inside. The replacement gears are starting to get frightfully expensive these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris078
Don't forget the spigot bush in the crankshaft while you are at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Outback
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
Forgive my ignorance but what is a Spigot bush? Maybe I have lost something in translation?
Its the brass bush that fits in the flywheel & supports the gearbox shaft,Quote:
Originally Posted by Outback
Land Rover Parts - BUSH - SPIGOT - V8 R/R CLASSIC, R/R P38, DISC 1+2, DEF/COUNTY V8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
See now that is what I'm talking about. KLR Automotive uses Penrite 75-90 semi syn and even Paul uses Castrol VMX 80. My uncle ran a civilian Lt95 for 550000 km on 75-90 without a problem.
At the moment I'm using Castrol Rx-super 15-40. I do add a tube of Nulon G-70 to it. Makes the shifts much smoother, it's very notchy without it.
I wish Grays would do a parts auction here in Brisbane. If they did, I would probably see about picking up a gearbox. As it is, buying in Sydney and shipping up adds several hundred to the cost.
How do gearbox parts hold up to storage? If they are getting pricey, would it be worth ordering some parts now and storing them until the box needs to come out?
How reliable are the transmissions once there in top shape? Are they stout or strong transmissions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Outback
Supposedly with a degree of care, an LT95A will go forever, and has a reputation for keeping on going even after it develops faults.
From what I have read around here, the problems with them come from a couple of sources
1. The engine. The 4bd1 is a rough and ready motor that has it's full torque available from a relatively low rpm, which makes it easy to damage the box if you miss a shift or have it in the wrong gear and 'lug' the box
2. They were driven and used hard, and lets face it, the drivers were not concerned with or worried about breaking it, so they 'drove it like they stole it'.
3. The transfer case is a known Land Rover weak spot. forget to engage the diff lock when you leave the tarmac will quickly result in a burned out transfer case
4. This problem is quickly coming to light
a) as Bearman stated in the OP of this thread, incorrect rebuilding of the gearbox in various ways (wrong torque, sub standard parts, not using loctite)
b) incorrect installation of the gearbox > again as per Bearmans OP, incorrect installation resulting in damage to the gearbox and premature wear/failure.