perentie coolant

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Originally Posted by incisor

there are several tectalloy coolants

which one dave?

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Last time I was in Kmart they only had the one type of tectalloy coolant but it was available in concentrate or premix. if you get the premix you dont need the distilled water. (but you cant drink the premix in an emergency)

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Originally Posted by AndyG

Have you considered waterless coolant :p :wasntme:

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Dont laugh, yes. its been done I've set it up into a county (basically the same vehicle) and was trialed in a few various vehicles types by the ADF in something like 1998.

IIRC from back in the day it was a nalcool product, there was always confusion when we got vehicles in that had the nalcool and afloc stickers on the system when they came in because the colours didnt match up for a while.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Last time I was in Kmart they only had the one type of tectalloy coolant but it was available in concentrate.

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we get two here, both are concentrates


xtra cool

• Concentrate
• Radiator Corrosion Inhibitor
• Type B
• 2 years / 40,000 km life span
• 500ml treats up to 10 litre system
• Minimal or nil AFAB protection
• Contains Ethylene Glycol 369g/Litre
• 100% Corrosion Protection
• Australian Made
• Keeps cooling water clean and rust free
• Reduces corrosive attack on aluminium and cast iron
• Will not harm radiator hoses
• For vehicles requiring a glycol based coolant use Tectaloy Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Long Life Concentrate Coolant
• Silicate, phosphate & amine free

and

xtra cool green gold

• Concentrate
• Makes up to 15 litres
• 3 years / 60,000 km life span if diluted with tap water
• 3 years / 100,000 km life span if diluted with demineralised water
• Type B
• Organic
• Radiator Corrosion Inhibitor
• Contains Ethylene Glycol 280g/Litre
• 100% Corrosion Protection
• Minimal or nil AFAB protection
• Australian Made
• Exceeds Australian Standard AS 2108-2004 Type B
• Silicate, phosphate & amine free

they very similar but there seems to be some differences in the points above

the bottle in the back of foz thats possibly from the last batch I bought when I was in the switch is the gold stuff.

the key difference between the 2 is the concentration and the additional inhibitor package.

if you get the non gold one, drain and change yearly with a back flush every 2 years.

Given the exhorbitant cost of the gold one... use the same process and timings. (but you could goto a 2/4)

Took Dave's advice from his earlier post and knocked-up a cooling system pressure gun in the shed this morning out of threaded brass and pvc pipe fittings. Fairly compact, fits across the palms of two hands. Made it so that the O.D. of the outlet fitted into the mouths of the radiator hoses at the radiator ends (the radiator is out to be taken to my radiator guy for a check-over).
Removed the thermostat, re-fitted the housing and then set to and flushed the engine block bottom-to-top and bottom-to-top with mains water pressure and the air pressure kept fairy low (60 psi). Worked a treat, though didn't shift much in the way of sediment or corrosion as I think the innards are fairly clean, as not much came out with the chemical flush either. Thanks Dave.
A new Isuzu 82-degree thermostat will go in, and the old (also 82-degree thermostat) will probably be kept as a spare if it checks out OK.

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Originally Posted by cummo

Took Dave's advice from his earlier post and knocked-up a cooling system pressure gun in the shed this morning out of threaded brass and pvc pipe fittings. Fairly compact, fits across the palms of two hands. Made it so that the O.D. of the outlet fitted into the mouths of the radiator hoses at the radiator ends (the radiator is out to be taken to my radiator guy for a check-over).
Removed the thermostat, re-fitted the housing and then set to and flushed the engine block bottom-to-top and bottom-to-top with mains water pressure and the air pressure kept fairy low (60 psi). Worked a treat, though didn't shift much in the way of sediment or corrosion as I think the innards are fairly clean, as not much came out with the chemical flush either. Thanks Dave.
A new Isuzu 82-degree thermostat will go in, and the old (also 82-degree thermostat) will probably be kept as a spare if it checks out OK.

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theres a few variants of the thermostat... mostly its changes in the little bleed port.

if you have one that has the rattler in it, has the tiny hole in it or doesnth have a hole. make a 3mm hole.

dont forget to gently clean the threads out of the housing bolts and housing as well as cleaning up the mating faces properly, you're not aiming for a shiney finish but a matt finish. Dont forget to use loctite to stop the bolts from corroding in place. a smear of antisieze on the shanks and 243 on the leading 3 threads. Dont let them contaminate.

Thanks Dave; sounds like a plan. The housing bolts were a little corroded, dry though not wet. I will run a lubed tap through the holes, and some copper slip to the threads. Good idea re. the Loctite to the upper threads; hadn't thought of that. Wasn't sure whether the housing mating faces needed a sealant - Stag or similar - although it sounds like the flange seal on the thermostat flange will seal the housing sufficiently.
I will have a close look at each of the thermostats also.

Cheers, Dave

watching with interest for future reference