ARN: 49057 FFR AKA "Rango"

Attachment 153078
I am still learning about electrics. Actually this is my 2nd attempt at it.
I have put in 2 switches(the blue is for the water pump, and the green is for the lights.
I have a duel USB and a single 12v accessory/cigarette socket.
I have one light(which I already had in the vehicle) to help light up on the cook top area. I decided to mount it sideways facing as it will light the area up better and won't get blocked by cookware where as if I mounted it at the back facing out it would have.
Attachment 153079
Attachment 153080
I wanted the fridge as part of the kitchen and not on a separate slide for easy access and to mainly be using one drawer.I mounted a light on this side overlooking the fridge mainly because the fridge does not have a light in it.
If I had my time again I would have mounted all my electrics at the back corner between the fridge area and the cook top area. But this is what happens when you make things up as you go.
Attachment 153081
I am ok enough with how the electrics and water is plumbed up. The loose cable on top is the fridge cable which I will fix soon. I am thinking of where to put an Engel outlet for a better connection.
Attachment 153082
I have just temporarily put a small fold up coffee table behind the fridge.
I am hoping the fridge will have enough air to keep the temps down.If not I can put in vents and/or a small 12V fan to circulate air.
Attachment 153083
Tucked in next to the fridge is a hose and tap which is connected to a 12v inline whale pump. Works quite well.
Attachment 153084
I have given it enough length to pull out. I may put a better tap on it and shorten it later. But I think this will work better as I can wash feet off, fill buckets ect easily.
Attachment 153085
I have at the back section a 20L water Jerry can. This is there for the water pump and as a counter balance for the drawer unit.
Attachment 153086
I have used clear hose so I can tell that there is water in the line as the inline water pump needs to have water to it prior to use(gravity fed from the Jerry can).
Attachment 153087
Due to the slope of the rear bulkhead teh drawers could not go all the way at the bottom without making them on an angle. I used this cavity space to put a fuse box. It is a 12 way as that is what I had but will swap it for a 6 way later on. I have it connected to a long cable with an Anderson plug on the other end. This is then connected to a long cable with Anderson plugs both ends which connects to the AGM battery. I used one of my solar ext. leads for the mean time.
Attachment 153088
Can be seen here. I took out the plate that was there so I could access the fuse box as well as add circulation of air. I put a zip tie around the 2 Anderson plugs as I don't want them to come apart.
By having this wiring setup it pulls out and retracts with the drawer without any issues. I do know of alternatives but this was once again a quick and simple solution.

Attachment 153089
The LHS drawer is at this stage one long drawer without any dividers. The sides are not as high due to the piece of wood I had at the time. This has worked out well as I can put storage containers/tubs in if I want. My original plan was for this drawer to be wider and then I could have had 2 drawers vertically orientated.
I have filled this with quite a decent amount of gear and it slides well. I have carpeted it with a car boot liner style of carpet.
In these photos it currently is storing the following; 2 chairs, a bag of firewood, fold-able solar panel, recovery gear,a few tools, lights and shower. It has much more room for gear. Which may include 2 bags for clothes. It also fits a carton of beer standing up.
Attachment 153093
Attachment 153094
Attachment 153095
I have used plastic slides underneath. Easy to install and effective.

Attachment 153096
Inside I have a 70mm thick swag mattress which fits almost perfectly(just a bit long).
Attachment 153097
Attachment 153098
There are rear storage compartments which were already on the roof when I bought it. At times I find these annoying but they are also useful for putting some light gear up there. My ideas are Pillows, Bedding( but I would most likely have these on the bed ready to go) or clothes bags.
Attachment 153099
I have a long LED light which puts out heaps of light(probably good enough for the cooking area really) I just need to rewire it and put some switches at the back and front.
Attachment 153100
Down the sides I have made 4 lift off lids for access to the tub areas. The plan is to put things I would not use much such as, recovery tracks, a 43l water tank, battery?, inverter.
Attachment 153101
I have just used some cheap angle brackets which are easy enough to take out if I need to.
Attachment 153102
I would like to make some covers for the windows and/or tint them to reduce heat exchange and for privacy.
While I originally intended for this unit to be about 2-3 inches lower, there is still enough room to sleep in there and for us younger ones it is fine for getting up into.
Most of the time we will still take the swag which will fit in there fine.
We prefer to the swag for sleeping as it is a double with plenty of room and gets us out of the vehicle and gets better access to air flow.
The main reason for putting the mattress in the back is because I already had it so thought why not and also it just allows a place to sleep or lay down during the day or if on a big trip( wish I had this when we went to Goomeri instead of driving 13hrs straight after a long day at work and arriving there at 3am).
There are lots of things I am not happy with and that I would do different if I had my time again, but we all need to start somewhere I guess. At the end of the day it works and allows us to get away quickly with ease.
I think One of the things I like most about it is that it is setup ready to go always and you cant tell there if it is empty of has all the camping gear. It still provides full view for driving and means I don't have to be stacking camping gear like the 'Beverly Hillbillies'.
If it wasn't for our current work and study commitments including of the not so safe areas we have been working I would prefer just a swag in the back with a canvas top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWGP...ature=youtu.be
Showing how easy the gear drawer(LHS) slides and shuts using one hand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dWn5_bi4D4&feature=youtu.be
The water pump- sorry for the footage it was a bit hard late at night doing it all with my left hand while filming with my right.

If I was going to do it again I would use steel drawer slides on the kitchen/fridge drawer. However getting slides to do that job with the unit being 1.8m long is quite hard to get and cost a few dollars too.

I ended up buying more resources then I needed (when you live over an hour away to the closest big town you do that).
I also spent a bit of money on tools which most people would have so I won't include that in the cost breakdown.
A basic material and cost breakdown(rounded off) of what I actually used(including off cuts and some waste)
12mm structural ply 2400x1200 x 5 sheets= $300 *I have quite a bit left over in off cuts as due to the size of cuts I had to use more sheets
6mm marine ply 2400x1200= $70 I have most of this left over, but will use it here and there.
Plastic slides 40mm wide x 5mm thick x 2000mm long. I used 4 lots with some left over= $80(delivery was the killer as they were from Sydney to rural NSW)
Large paddle locks x 2= $80
2L black paint=$55 * I used this just to help protect the wood and to hide my bad craftsmanship
Bootliner carpet 2000mm wide by 1500mm long= $65
Marine carpet 2000mm wide x 25000mm long = $100 * I have more as I intend on using it under the mattress and in other areas(doors perhaps).
Glue= $5
Aluminium angle= $10
Storage boxes for kitchen= $60 ( would be cheaper making them but I was trying to save time).
2x switches=$10
2x lights= $35
Narva Duel socket outlet=$30
Hose with fittings= $30
electric cabling with fittings= $60
Fuse box= $80 however I will trade this for a Narva 6 way so roughly $40
Whale inline water pump=$40
Jerry can=$30 *I actually got this for the rear Jerrycan holders so could be replaced with a cheaper one for $20
Screws/bolts ect= $15
Angle brackets= $25
Fridge=$719(on sale)
a few tubs/containers=$15
Tie down straps=$10
Tie down points=$15
Plastic table 500mmx1000mm= $40(I originally planned on using this as a pullout drawer/table)*I already had the other table which is slightly larger but also $40 if you wanted one.

* I am not including camping gear I bought as some was accumulated overtime and some I still need to get as I am only just starting off with camping gear.

So as a Total cost it comes to about $2000(yikes) but when you take out the fridge, extra table, trade the 12 way fuse box for a 6 way fuse box and go for a cheaper Jerry can it would be a total cost of around $1150.
To make it cheaper again I could have not used carpet which would bring it down to about $1000
Could have saved $45 but making the drawers rather than buying it.
Could have saved $40 by just using gravity fed water.
Saved another $30 but just using a tap from a Jerry can.
Bringing it down to about $850
Obviously I could have saved lots more money in other areas.
I might have been able to save money by making a frame rather than using ply wood.But I find this method easy.
I could have also saved money by not using lockable drawer latches and just using a handle. I like the look of the paddle locks and like that I can lock it. Yes I know people could still easily get in if they wanted but this is an extra barrier.
I looked at DRIFTA drawers ect and while I think they are really well prices and obviously much better than mine, it would have cost $4000 or there abouts for these drawers and then I would still need to put the fridge on top of that.
Plus this way you get to learn as you do things.

I am sure I forgot a few things along the way but I did want to point out I did not screw, glue or bolt this down to the tub, so therefore no extra holes(not that it would really matter). Everything I have done I have made to be reversible. The unit is put it tight so does not move.
I also decided just to use the table as a support rather than installing a leg as this method works well and is an easy to do.
Before anyone says anything about the ROPs. I am very aware it is not there you don't need to spend your time lecturing me.

How do you find sleeping with the mattress that high relative to the ceiling? Can you sit up on the bed? I looked at a similar setup for my series 109" but needed to set the bed a fair bit lower, but then the length to the bulkhead becomes an issue...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

How do you find sleeping with the mattress that high relative to the ceiling? Can you sit up on the bed? I looked at a similar setup for my series 109" but needed to set the bed a fair bit lower, but then the length to the bulkhead becomes an issue...

---

Good question. I still have about 60cm of head room including the mattress and 70cm of headroom without the mattress which I find doable. If I lowered it to the same height as the top of the tub it would be a bit better. Prior to this I had a platform/shelf unit that sat on the tub wells which was fantastic but then I couldn't fit as much gear.
The worst part is getting through the tailgate area as the roof comes down at that point.
So can you sit up-not quite.
So I guess it comes down to your purposes- how often are you sleeping in it, how often do you get in and out, how capable is your body of getting in and out and how much it affects you having a smaller space.
I personally find it really easy. My partner not as much but that is more so due to the height to get in.
If I was going to build it for one person I would consider a setup similar to this where you have kitchen and cabinets ect down ones side and the bed on the other with some walkway/movement area down the middle.
Attachment 153107
If it is a S2A or earlier you might be able to extend into the front cab and onto the firewall for a bed. I know you can with a S1 86/107/88/109.