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Two suggestions. Try putting the nose up on ramps while you bleed it.
Last time I had this issue I reverse bled it, forcing fluid in via the bleeder with an oil pump intended for filling diffs etc (very carefully cleaned of any trace of oil, and rinsed out with metho).
Just an added note...Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmac
*The odd occasion when its difficult to get first can simply be that reminiscent thing landies have, its never been the most user friendly gearbox.
*The same with reverse not engaging every now and then.
*Some let the clutch out slight as they push into the gear, but reverse can crunch a bit.
*Rather than crunch a gear, select next gear, move slightly then go for your first choice again.
Justin cooper once gave me a tip to bleed these.
Get a bit of radiator hose, fit it (snug) over the master cylinder, then over fill the master. Worked first time for me.
Large capacity syringes are particularly good for this task, available from any vet.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
1. it might be your MC intermittantly bypassing.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmac
2. never had an issue and neither will you iif you drive it right. when approaching the lights floor the clutch flick the shift to neutral as you up the brake pressure and take your foot off of the clutch. when you goto move off punch the clutch to the floor and then push into gear.
trying to select gears while stationary is going to give you issues about 10-15% of the time. as your trying to engage things that might be faced up against each other, having the input of the gearbox turning while the output is stationary means the syncros can work as they're supposed to.
slecting reverse is a case of select 3rd or 4th and then shift to reverse, Every box is a little different but theres almost always one gear that will let you use the forwards gear syncros to top the shafts and have the gears for reverse line up.
interesting concept -must try that method.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
grab an old bmx bike tube, a hose clamp, 2 tent pegs, a bit of string and a knife. (brake fluid probably too eventually)
cut the bike tube get yourself a section with thevalve in it, cut it about an inch away from the valve.
drop the hose clamp over the MC
Stretch the bike tube over the MC with the vavle past the top of the MC,
Secure the bike tube onto the MC with the hose clamp below the tube valve.
stand up the tube and fill it with brake fluid.
fold the open end over one tent peg, place the other tent peg along side it and roll the tube up on the 2 pegs. After a while you will develop some pressure.
secure it with the string and lift it vertically so theres a column of brake fluid under pressure over the MC
Crack the bleed nipple.
Clutch bled.
Oh for those of you who are having issues with clutch bleeds and arent swearing at the location of the bleed nipple above the clutch slave line...
has one of the muppets before you put the bleed nipple at the bottom and the pipe at the top because back bleeding with the unimog pressure bleeder works quicker and easier than trying to do it the normal way?
all land rovers are hard to go from neutral to first gear because its not syncro thats why people break gear levers put it in second or third and then firstQuote:
Originally Posted by mattmac
Quote:
Originally Posted by normie
Ya what now?
Not since.about 68/9 with the last of the IIA series boxes
Hell even the military ones after the IIa had the luxury of syncro.on first.
Perhaps you are confusing 1st with reverse?Quote:
Originally Posted by normie