You will find that the genuine Isuzu oil filter has a non return valve built in. This stops most of the oil flow out when it is removed. It does not stop all the mess but it is substantially better than other filters in this regard.
Hi All,
I have owned my RFSV for a number of years now and have changed the engine oil every 10 000 kms. I have always just spun the oil filter off and quickly turned it up the other way and taken it out. It is a messy job however as oil runs out and over the front diff resulting in quite a big clean up of my carport floor.
I have read and seen images of other Perentie owners drilling the top of the filter before removing it to allow the filter to drain. I have also seen one image of a filter with a valve on the top that can be opened to allow the filter to drain. Is this the best way to drain the filter before removing?
Should I drain the filter housing before removing the filter. I have had a look at the filter housing diagram and it looks like there is a drain plug on it. Do others on the forum drain the housing before removing the filter?
Also I searched the AULRO site and found a list of engine oil filter part numbers that others use for their Perentie. Are these the correct filters as I purchased a box of 12 filters a few years ago and need to purchase some new filters now.
Look forward to hearing any tips and confirmation of the engine oil filter part numbers.
Regards Warrick.
- Isuzu 8-94321219-1 (Oil)
- LR AYG585 (Oil)
- Donaldson P550422 (Oil)
- Fleetguard LF3642 (Oil)
"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex....It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
Albert Einstein.
You will find that the genuine Isuzu oil filter has a non return valve built in. This stops most of the oil flow out when it is removed. It does not stop all the mess but it is substantially better than other filters in this regard.
Phil B
Custodian of:
1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
1978 S3 swb canvas
48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
1985 County with 4BD1T
Here’s a couple of additional oil filter part numbers FYI
BALDWIN B7144
ryco z435
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
remove the drain plug on the filter housing, drop the sump plug, wait, replace sump plug, top up oil, remove filter, replace filter housing drain plug, install filter. disable EDIC crank till oil light goes out, enable EDIC and if you changed the fuel filter, keep your foot planted, start it and maintain 1200 RPM till the the rough running passes.
If you're going to drain the Fuel water seperator as well you will most likely want to hand prime it OR you do the start and rev thing twice, once to refill the FWS and then again after you change the fuel filter.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Just another tip that works well for our perenties and earthmoving gear, if the filter is in an awkward place, crack it, then put a couple of plastic bags over it to undo it. The filter and all the oil ends up in the bag for disposal.. Yes its a PITA when the oil goes everywhere, particularly if your changing it in your driveway.
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