Very, very nice!
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Very, very nice!
Had a Suzuki soft top once. Ran a single 8, then a single 10 and finally a pair of cheap and nasty 12s. The 10" would have been plenty for most but I wanted a bit more whoomph.
Glovebox subwoofers work well. I'd be looking at how I could gets a 10 in there before considering 8s in the doors. You shouldn't get too many rattles from the dash but lets face it that car's not exactly going to be a quiet ride.
Are you the same audiophile Rogan who is on RRNET and LandyZone?
Many thanks! Can you please explain why the glovebox sub is better? Is it a matter of the 10" being better than 8"s or more about the placement?Quote:
Originally Posted by rogan
I'm on RRnet but not on Landyzone. Used to be on LRonly forums but haven't been there in ages.
Having the sub up front means you can play higher frequencies through it without to much damage to the stage. Subbass gives the thump, and mid bass gives the kick, so by having the sub up front you can load it up with some mid bass without dragging the sound backwards. In quite a few competition cars they'll mount a 10" up front to bolster the mid bass.
I've never had an 8" that's really done it for me. In a soft top, you lose a lot of bass (no real cabin gain) so I think volume output matters. A 10" that will do 300+ rms should be plenty; even if it's inefficient there still should be enough grunt to make a substantial difference. Only issue with dash subs is building the enclosure and mounting it. I would try and mount it under the dash facing down.
Don't go too expensive if you're doing sand or dust driving, and likewise don't use a ported enclosure to keep the business end of the sub free from dust and sand particles
Oops! I meant LROnly.Quote:
Originally Posted by rogan
Awesome info - thanks! Just the sort of info I was hoping for.
I'll go with the glove box option as you suggest - I like the idea of keeping the stage forward while pushing out some higher freqs.
You mention 300wrms for the sub. For simplicities sake, I was going to find a 4 ch amp, with fr/l&r for the splits and then bridge the other two channels for the sub, while running the rear fill speakers from the head unit. I've been hunting around and haven't noticed any cheap, high power amps. There's a jaycar/response unit that's promising and I've had good luck with jaycar stuff before. Are there others you'd recommend?
Cheers!
I built a custom box for on the floor in the rear footwell, angled the face of the sub towards what would be your back window which reflected back forwards between the headrests. Then tune the sub for the wavelength floor/window/headrests. Gives that bit more volume.
But you need that rear window.
4x75rms amp should work fine. Those Jaycar amps have a decent reputation from what I've heard.
I had a quick look on ebay, one amp that jumped off the screen is this one:
Digital Designs Amplifier DD SS1 mono 600W@12v!!! perfect working order | eBay
I have one and they're tiny. Heaps of power which you probably won't need. It's a 2ohm stable mono but makes enough at 4 ohms so would be happy running any sub you throw at it. Worth watching the auction, if you can pick it up under about AU$120 then it's a good buy; not many people have heard of them so maybe the price will stay low. Of course you'd then need a separate amp for your fronts, but you could pick up an old Alpine 35xx series for peanuts if you hunt round. For simplicity a solid 4channel is a good way to go though.