For that requirement it’s more than enough.
D4 2013
I’m running 8b&s from the spare battery (with a 40 amp fuse at the battery), (traxide kit) to the rear jack compartment. From there it splits with 1 x 1/2 going to the tow hitch for the camper or solar input. The other 1/2 (still 8b&s) goes to the rear a/c locker. My aim is to put in 2x Anderson 50amp sockets. 1 to power the fridge (5 amps?), and the other to power the ARB compressor.
Is 8b&s thick enough or should I change it for 6 or 4b&s? I’ve still got access via the hole near the accelerator pedal as the other one near foot rest is full.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
For that requirement it’s more than enough.
Yep, plenty big enough.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Great. Thanks guys, you’ve saved me a couple of hours of wiring
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Sorry if I misunderstood, but when you say it's going to the camper, is that just to run lights, or are you charging a battery?
Sounds like it could be both, depending on circumstances.
John said run to the camper or solar.
Run to the camper one could reasonably assume means to power some stuff in the camper.
.. or solar obviously.
I'd say the fuse sounds a bit small for the compressor AND fridge AND if powering anything in the camper at any point.
IIRC most or some ARB compressors themselves require a 40A fuse. Some can draw over 60A themselves, but I think these are the twin pot high volume types.
If it's a regular blue bodied compressor from them, it can run at close to 35A itself. Obviously not all the time, and would be only when under load pushing those last few psi into the almost inflated tyre .. etc.
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
Yes, I was going to make the same point about the amp draw. If you use 4B&S you will also future proof your installation as in the future you may wish to upgrade something in the camper or car. I also suggest you use a maxi Fuse or similar to allow a higher fuse value than the standard blade fuse.
I have run 4B&S to the back as my compressor runs to 50amps plus my Engel, and now plus my 3way fridge in the caravan and 20/20DC/DC charger in the caravan.
The approx 10B&S leads get quite warm from the Anderson plug to the compressor.
I took note of the comments to my previous thread and also shortened my run of 8B&S by about 1.5 metres and my 4B&s by 1metre.
Regards PhilipA
The only thing in the camper that draws power while we’re driving is the 65lt 12v fridge. There’s a poor example of a solar panel on the roof, and 200ah of lead acid batteries. I think that the wiring from drawbar to batteries is probably 8b&s (as guess).
I’ve been on many trips to the desert since February and I’ve run the compressor while the camper was hooked up (car has a 2nd Waeco 50lt set to freeze) and I’ve never blown a fuse yet. At this point I’m unplugging the Waeco to plug on the compressor as I still need to splice in a 2nd Anderson for the compressor.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
On the D2 that I sold I ran 3b&s from the spare battery to the campers battery (sold that camper as well). Had no voltage drop, but with the current setup I get to the Camp site with over 13v in the camper batteries also.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
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