I think I posted something similar a while ago……
Thought I’d help a guy find out why his bong lights stopped working last night.
Fuse holder melted and fuse looking pretty average….
I found yet another example of wiring in an fuse without a fuse holder, here I was thinking the first one was a once in a life time find. He said he’d owned the 100 series for 6 years and thought it was OK as the previous owner said it was all good.
Bloody Toyotas.
At least it has a fuse,i have seen many instances where a fuse is needed,but none is fitted.
Paul
D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.
'56 S1,been in the family since...'56
Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run
All of those spade fuses have alloy spades, alloy is prone to corrosion especially when it is mated with a dissimilar metal like brass, steel, zinc coated steel, stainless steel etc.
The resultant corrosion means the connection heats up as current flows through it which in turn raises the resistance, which causes more heat which results in the melted fuse holder above.
I've also had a similar problem with vehicle fuseboxes which usually have brass contacts and the heat produced has led to a fire under the dash which causes some alarm to the driver when smoke starts to pour out from under the dash!
Oka's also suffer from the problem so make pulling all the fuses and either cleaning the fuse spades or replacing the fuses every 12 months or so.
Another way to solve the problem to a certain extent is to coat the fuse spades after cleaning with conductive grease very sparingly otherwise dust builds up and causes more problems.
I find the best preventative is Corosion X spray both into the holder and on the fuse. Marvellous stuff and in no way comparable to WD40 and similar. It goes on my PCBs and equally inside my spinning (fishing) reels. Cheers
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