but is it working?
:Rolling::wasntme::whistling:
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Yes, I'll do that. The RR does a run a lower voltage than later cars designed for calcium batteries. This is the second or third calcium plus a new alternator in the RR (in nearly 7 years) - plus two in the Disco (in a year). I won't buy another calcium battery for the P38A.
Hi mate and there is your problem.
At 13.6 volts, you are only ever recharging your batteries to about 75 to 80% each time you drive and your batteries are never fully charged, no matter how long you drive for.
This is a sure fire way to shorten any type of battery’s life.
13.8 volts is the absolute minimum voltage to be able to fully charge a battery and even then, it will take a lot of driving time to achieve a fully charged battery.
Before you do anything ( other than hooking up your battery charger whenever possible ) find out if you can get your regulator adjusted up to about 14.2.
14.2 volts is a good optimum level that will get your batteries fully charged in a reasonable time but will guaranty not to over charge them in hot weather.
Again, before you do anything, get your batteries on a charge. The sooner you do it the more chance you have of maintaining the batteries you have.
Again, keep us informed
Are regulators adjustable these days?
Oh, I forgot to mention the ambient temp was 36 deg C. Based on my hazy recollection of lead-acid battery charging, one should reduce the voltage as the temperature rises - negative temperature compensation.
I'll take another measurement after my run home after work about 11.30pm when it will be cooler.
Hi Ron, the temperature is not a factor in the voltage level of your alternator.
The voltage will be the same in the middle of summer and the dead of winter.
After 15 minutes of driving you will have the set output of your alternator and it’s too low.
Cheers, Tim.