Thread: Diff Conversion

Originally Posted by Disco_Dan

Just wondering if anyone could provide some information with the so called Toyota (sorry for swearing) diff centre conversion into disco 1 housings. Information on this is limited. any help would be appreciated , after breaking my 3rd centre in as many months with standard tires im begginging to see an issue as the last one was a 3 day recovery effort in a remote location on almost not passable mountainside terrain, ended up swapping the diff and axles on a 35 degree incline with rock steps and plenty of bulldust in the dark.

I have never heard of the diff centres going into the D1 housing plenty of guys have swapped the whole housing front and rear for Nissan and Yota ones.

I'm no purist but if you want Yota housings, go the whole hog and buy a Cruiser

sorry guys

Search for hilux diff centre conversion on here and outerlimits4x4, heaps of info, I've done a few, source axles from either Jack Macnamara in Melb or Keith from Rovertracks in the US

Good conversion

3 diff centres on stock tyres
Not being silly - but maybe reevaluate your driving technique a little.
I've only done 1 diff centre with a 5.0l. Supercharged v8 on 35s.

Neither vehicle since has modified diffs and they run tweaked engines and oversize agressive rubber.

Consider a Detroit or ARB centre, much stronger than stock.

I thought that about my driving style however i couldnt see how i could be much more gentle with it , after the first centre i am very particular with lines i take and trying to keep wheelspin to an absolute minimum and bouncing the car up hills and such. the last centre went just starting to climb a slope slowly , about 1500 in 1st low range.. possibly just bad luck with second hand centres?

also wile on the subject after i installed the centre at about 830 pm on the track after using quick steel to repair the housing that the spider gears had been ejected through i slotted the axles in (all from range rover classic) upon trying to bolt them up the bolts would not fit properly , you could just squease the bolt in semi crushing the thread but requiring turning even to get through the axle however further up the bolt after the thread stops and there is a blank part up towards the bolt head that was far too large , luckily had a file and filed them down (3 hours of filing later) we were able to crudely get drive wich with winching got us out. question being is my D1 axles had a flatter flange wile the rrc ones i got had a dome kind of flange and no provisions for oil seal on the shaft. Are there any other axles that will fit properly besides another set of d1 10 splines

Oh, if its just the centre rather than the crown wheel and pinion then a locker or something similar will probably fix it. The centre is weak.

the way they are failing kind of indicated to me excessive wheelspin because of the spider gear failing , cw and p have been okay every time.. however this time it also twisted the splined end off the short driver side. i was making a slight right hand turn up onto the hill when it failed and was curious if it might have been kind of locked up due to failing already and just spat to pieces when the axle went. either way it was a big mess

There isn't a whole heap of difference in strength between the centre of the diff (hemisphere) failing and the axle snapping. If you do a Toy conversion you'll need new HD axles anyway. IF you don't go care free with it, then I'd just lock it with HD axles. Its a fairly standard Rover setup.