Serg and i keep telling each other we are going to vent the guards and he said to me the other day he's going to get a stainless snorkel fabbed up to run through the top of the guard too :D
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Serg and i keep telling each other we are going to vent the guards and he said to me the other day he's going to get a stainless snorkel fabbed up to run through the top of the guard too :D
bigcarle,
the most common reason for this problem is a clogged radiator. You may feel its pannel cold because it's no coolant flow through it.
The past year it was an epidemy here with my mates.
A lot of overheating troubles were solved by cleaning inside the radiator pannel tubes by a flat bar.
The substance that produces this problem seems to be old coolant together with radiator age.
Please read this article (in english after a couple of lines).
landroverclub.com.ar :: Ver tema - Por que se tapan los radiadores?
Regards
well after a series of temp spikes over as couple of weeks i found the cause to be the NEW thermostat not opening quick enough or at all.:twisted:
when i took the thermostat out it started to use water, i thought that i hadn't bled the system properly, however after driving around like that for 2 weeks i then put the old thermostat back in (after testing, replacement, thermostat not good enough) and still using heaps of water.:o
its now parked in the front yard getting the head removed to see if it is a gasket or a cracked head.
the highest the EM got to was 116 with heat soak after stopping engine at 106.
also doing the injector pump due to heavy fuel leakage from the top :eek:
Hi roverrescueQuote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
I tried to lock a viscous fan hub with a roofing screw, it was to get a friend home as his hub had failed to drive the fan and the 200TDi was getting hot.
He didn't overheat on the way back, but when he arrived home, he found that the hub had unwound itself and the fan dropped into the radiator cowling.
So it looks like a solid hub will spin off the left handed thread on deacceleration, unless some sort of lock is employed.
Cheers Arthur
sorry for the long wait about the cause of the high temps
the engine had done 254k and when i pulled the head of it the
head gasket that was leaking between 2-3 and had been doing for a little while.
i have since read a few posts about the heads having a weak moment around the 250k mark so i assume i am a victim of of this.
new turners head fitted as the old one was marginal with it needing a 8-9 thou shave and the hardnes just around 2-3 down to 65
Yep, JC has seen a multitude of 300Tdi's doing head gaskets around this mileage and so often advocates a preventative change to beat the inevitable.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigcarle
Mines done 280,000km, I really should hurry and source a 4BD1T :o
:o But, According to most I am a panic merchant Rick...:pQuote:
Originally Posted by rick130
I have seen a LOT at this KM range, but some at 100 odd K and some at 500K too.
Best advice as it is a relatively easy task, do it at 250K.
JC
I've had a squeak for a while in my car that I didn't know what it was, would kind of go away when the revs got higher but start making noise at idle sometimes, then give a final squeak when I turned the engine off each time. It's the water pump and it needs replacing.
This is in a V8 though so don't know if that helps you at all.
EDIT: Hadn't read all the posts and it doesn't sound like it's a water pump now...my bad, I'm happy that I had some input into this conversation even if it was useless :)
:lol2: bloody alarmist :pQuote:
Originally Posted by justinc
seeing as i read the type of post above AFTER the fact it is a lesson i have learnt. :oQuote:
Yep, JC has seen a multitude of 300Tdi's doing head gaskets around this mileage and so often advocates a preventative change to beat the inevitable
now i have seen where the 300TDi big end bearings can have a weak moment around the 300k mark. i am looking at doing this job in the near future as it is currently at 263k ;)