Thread: running in 300tdi

On my rebuilt or new motors I only ever run 10-40 anyhow.
Penrite for that matter and change at 3000km and than every 7k km's.
Thats just me.
Run it in by not revving too hard and not over 2500rpm.
Gradually increas that and you be fine.

My current Disco 300 runs on 10-40 also, done 165k km's and seems to like it.

Hope it turns out all good for you.!

thanks big guy - well, the old lady has done just over 450k (spring chicken and I havent done anything to the bottom end, so I decided to run a bit thicker oil (summer coming up anyways)

trying not to rev too much - also its got a D-gas system, don't know whether I should run it on diesel only for the first 1000 or so....

I got D-gas too but good point about using it whilst running in.

Not an exact science really, perhaps stay off it and just take it easy and start the gas again after a few thousand K's.

Mine does love the gas though.

Originally Posted by Discovery-94

hello hello hello.

After 4 long weeks my 300tdi is back together with new timing belt, idler & tensioner, new head, new glow plugs, new injectors, and a heap of fresh gaskets (-finally got the vacuum pump gasket replaced too and new oil sump goo!

She started first up - which is pretty exciting - and is purring like a kitten again

So.... to keep it this way I would like to know what you guys think should be done within the first few weeks/kms travelled....

I put some thin-ish oil in first - 20W40 which I will change on the weekend to some 25W-60 with a new oil filter, want to get a new fuel filter in, and will check tappet clearance several times.

I am going on a few week trip in December ..... so if you guys have some thoughts on what to check/adjust/keep an eye on etc, especially with a new set of injectors (should I get someone to check the injection pump?)...

would be greeeatly appreciated.

Cheers so far....

S.

If you didn't rebore/replace pistons/rings/bearings, camshaft or lifters then there is no need to run in, as long as you have oil circulating the head and the tappets adjusted correctly then there is no reason to drive any different to normal.
"Running in" usually refers to seating the piston rings into the bore to get an airtight seal, the correct way to do this is first Don't use Synthetic oil while running in (use good quality Mineral oil) and keep the revs up, don't let idle any longer than necessary, reason for this is compressed gasses and fuel get in behind the compression rings and force them outwards to make strong contact with the bore walls forming the bore and rings to make a good seal. Any idling or non working load on the engine doesn't keep the rings in proper contact with the bore and can cause blow-by and glazing when running in is completed, anywhere from 2k to 5k change oil back to Synthetic or whatever oil you use if not Synthetic, Regards Frank.

I would strongly suggest replacing the big-ends if she has done 450k.
I did mine recently and it took all of one hour from beginning to end. Never done it before and only have standard tools and a torque wrench.
Just drop the sway bar down, undo the sump bolts, drop the sump and you're there. You'll sleep better knowing they are done.
Stick to the recommended 15/40 engine oil. You won't be doing it any favours running thicker oil as it can be slower to move around the engine, especially on start-up.
Cheers
Brian