Thread: Front passenger Elec window stuffed - easy fix or painful fix?

A new winder... about 100. Plus about an hour of your time

Had a similar problem on my '97 D1.

Removed the door trim etc and found the spot welds on the "scissor" mechanism had come adrift, so just welded them back together.

This lasted for a while (maybe a year) but eventually I had to get a new mechanism. Might be less involved in just replacing them up front.

Also, unless you have the delicate hands of a surgeon, you WILL break some of the clips that hold the door trim on, so you better get a few before you start the job.

HTH
David

As luck would have it, the FP window on my Disco gave up the ghost, also!
I wound the window down on Friday afternoon, it got all the way down then made a thud thud thud noise, low and behold, there it stayed!

Got home, pulled off the door trim, careful not to break the trim clips off the door card, in the process, I dont know how I managed it, but I broke several of the screw mounts for the door pocket taking off the trim!? The screws are behind the door card, so you cannot remove the pocket beforehand, so take care with that.

This is what I was greeted with:




The regulator had jumped the motor drive gear, so I had the reset that also.

I called M.R Automotive to see if they have replacement nylon rollers, they have a brass substitiute roller that will require removal of the pin that holds the roller on to fit the brass roller, which then gets a spot weld to reinstall the pin. So i'll be droping the regulator off to them tomorrow to have the new roller fitted. Was quoted $123 for the regulator (new) plus fitting.

The job all up with everything ready to go shouldnt take more than an hour from start to finish.
OH! Be careful not to scratch your tint if you have it when removing the reg, found that out the hard way

Hope this helps mate

If you have the tools and the inclination you can do it yourself.
My rear passenger one broke. I got the brass roller from MR Auto. Ground off the back of the rivet where it goes into the arm. Fit the new brass roller and the pin through, then tack weld the pin on from the rear. Refit and away you go.

If only I had access to a welder, it'd be a sinch to fix.

On the other hand, Im more than happy to give M.R any work I can, even if its only to weld in a roller! LOL

Great thanks everyone, I guess if one is gone it's probably not a bad idea to just do both the front ones while I'm at it is it.

Does the motor have some sort of microswitch built into it to stop it at a certain point when u wind the window down, or is it just a matter of adjustment with the reg? Got the new roller on, put everything back together, wound the window up, ok ... Wound it down on auto, it went all the way down ok but beyond where it should have and resulted in taking the reg back out resetting it again...

Sorry to hijack your thread Angus

Don't be silly its all good no hijack...you're just a couple of steps ahead of me