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Thread: Front passenger Elec window stuffed - easy fix or painful fix?

  1. #11
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    you can buy rollers from Bunnings for around $4 and retro fit them, done that on all 4 doors on our disco, works a treat.

  2. #12
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    Thumbs down

    YAY! 3 welds on the reg snapped this morning on my way to work, scared the beegeezuz outta me, the window glass dropped like a lead balloon, thankfully not shattering into oblivion!

    Guess it's a whole new reg for me now, could always drill out and re-spot weld it back together .... BAH! Its only money, right

  3. #13
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    Question

    Can anyone tell me if the plastic dust cover behind the door card is hard to get or expensive, if either is yes, what is a good substitute??

    Is there a trick to removing the yellow plugs that hold the door card clips in place without throwing things across the garage in anger coz you just ripped the crap outta the dust cover!?
    Guess I should've been a tad more careful removing it to get to the reg, it now has a few splits and tears, IMO rendering it useless should I find a puddle to wade through one day...

    Guess shooting first and asking questions later, in this case, was probably NOT the right thing to do

  4. #14
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    See last sentence of post #3 above

    I don't think it is possible myself..... I had to repair mine with some trusty duct tape.

  5. #15
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    Question

    I think that is about where Im at with that now LOL


    ...


    Just on the way the window works, Does the window ECU regulate how far the windows travel up and down or is it relative to load or resistance when the window is completely up or down that stops it going any further?

    Its got me baffled why the front window goes too far down to the point where the regulator comes off the motor gear?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco_Balls View Post
    I think that is about where Im at with that now LOL


    ...


    Just on the way the window works, Does the window ECU regulate how far the windows travel up and down or is it relative to load or resistance when the window is completely up or down that stops it going any further?

    Its got me baffled why the front window goes too far down to the point where the regulator comes off the motor gear?

    I got some regular old rubber door stoppers, you know, the kind that stops your kitchen door from opening too far, and bolting them onto the uprights where the glass stops (at the bottom of the door panel - on the inside ribs). The rubber stoppers are 5mm above the very bottom travel of the glass. This stopped my glass going down too far.

    This was verision 2. My first version was a small plank of pine laying in the bottom of the doorwell.... Basic, but did the job.

  7. #17
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    Feb 2010
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    Okay it's by time I fixed this front passenger window...my wife hates my car enough already without not being able to open her window! Is this a situation where if one dies it means the other won't be far behind? Ie. Should I just replace both?

    Any good suggestions who to get one off from overseas on the Internet?

  8. #18
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    If it's not broken blah blah blah

    YA

    Just do the one and I suggest you shop around. I had my FP break earlier this year and I bought the part from OS (also bought a pile of other sutff as well so postage was competitive).

    Cost about 25 pound from Britcar.

    From memory they start at about $95 - $110 in Australia and this is aftermarket parts. Genuine is about $175. You definitely don't need a genuine one as the non-genuine one I bought was identical in every way.

    Also I'm personally not a big fan of the home patch jobs although some have the merits. 100% recommend buying a complete new part.

    Easy job to replace. When you finish it you'll probably be kicking yourself that you didn't do it sooner.

    Regards
    Andrew

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew D View Post
    YA

    Just do the one and I suggest you shop around. I had my FP break earlier this year and I bought the part from OS (also bought a pile of other sutff as well so postage was competitive).

    Cost about 25 pound from Britcar.

    From memory they start at about $95 - $110 in Australia and this is aftermarket parts. Genuine is about $175. You definitely don't need a genuine one as the non-genuine one I bought was identical in every way.

    Also I'm personally not a big fan of the home patch jobs although some have the merits. 100% recommend buying a complete new part.

    Easy job to replace. When you finish it you'll probably be kicking yourself that you didn't do it sooner.

    Regards
    Andrew
    Okay I've had a quick look and found an Australian Britcar site, a guy on ebay in the US called Miami Rovers who has it for $50 which doesn't sound bad, and I can't seem to navigate properly or find the item on Britcar UK so maybe you have a link for that one I can use? With the dollar so good I'll probably get it from the US unless anyone doesn't think that Mr. Miami Rovers would be any good or there is a better option?

    I'll probably get the part in the new year...and I'll probably order a few of those little red door clips while I'm at it

  10. #20
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    YA

    Website Britcar (UK) Ltd Pays to know the part number to navigate the website. (I can't remember it).

    I also ordered some of the clips but didn't need them. I have'nt personnely used Mr Miami so can't comment.

    Regards
    Andrew

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