My Dodgy Disco, an update and a plea for advice....

**Mattskii** · 13th January 2011, 01:40 PM

Hi all,

Well, you may remember I posted in the Members Rides section about a Disco I purchased just before Christmas? Well, finally got the guy to tak it to his techie for a RWC, and some work. More dissapointment!

The RWC is issued, but the problems remain. Just to recap, the problems are:

Takes 2 or 3 attempts and about 30 or more secconds to start from cold. Takes about 10 secconds to start from warm, and you have to press the accelorator 25% to 50% to get it to start.
Once started, huge clouds of smoke puff forth from the exhaust.
It is consuming way too much fuel, 18 to 20l per 100km
It is running rich, there is a constant stench of fuel from the exhaust.
The timing may be a little out?
It stalls every now and again when manouvering at low speeds.

Although I have not tested it extensively, all of these faults seem to remain after the RWC and "tune up" which I was promised would fix all the problems. Apparently they will all be fixed by running some injector cleaner through at very high concentrations as they are all caused by dirty injectors!??!

I am concerned about the RWC too:

The drivers seat belt return spring does not work.
The engine mounts look very tired and perished.
one of the doors does not unlock with the central locking.

It was my understanding that these were all roadworthy issues?

So, where do I go from here? Should I get the car reinspected? What if there are significant faults, and how can I trust a mechanic who says there are faults, I have read a lot of garages in Melbourne are making up work that does not need to be done and the VicRoads are warning about such.

I feel a bit lost, a bit broke financially, a bit **** on by someone whom I thought was a mate, and generally misserable. My dream car is turning into a nightmare

**pistolpete** · 13th January 2011, 01:46 PM

i can answer the door lock - usually its a spring you can buy on ebay for about $15.. easy fix!!

the rest is well beyond my expertise..

**jazzaD1** · 13th January 2011, 01:51 PM

i would check for any air leaks in the intake ducting after the air flow meter, it may be cracked or something similar, letting unmetered air in, check for any loose or broken hoses also

since it has been running rich, the plugs are probably fouled, a fresh set of them is cheap enough and has been known to remedy some rough running and hard starting problems, in my experience anyway

unfortunately the 18-20l/100km fuel usage is about par for the course, maybe a bit better during long distance driving, but don't expect much better than this, there is a reason they are going cheap on the market

**Mattskii** · 13th January 2011, 01:58 PM

Great! I was told to expect a lot better than 18 - 20 l/100km. This guy realy did a good one on me.
One problem, I don't know what an intake ducting looks like, or where the air flow meter is. I am a complete novice when it come to engines!

The plugs, I was told, were new about 1000ks ago. Not sure I even have the tools to change them with!

**Mattskii** · 13th January 2011, 02:03 PM

Originally Posted by jazzaD1

.....there is a reason they are going cheap on the market

Mine was far from cheap. I have been so stupid!

**JBM770** · 13th January 2011, 03:23 PM

Just do 1 thing at a time and dont be too overwhelmed by a list of things to do.

If the plugs are fouled it wont matter how new they are the need cleaning or replacing.

Get a RAVE CD from "Daves Interesting Things" it is an electronic factory workshop manual. It gives you step by step instructions. Some of the detail isn't brilliant but things will happen in the right order.

The air intake duct work is black plastic and goes from the airbox, the big black plastic box with clips around the sides, in the front pass side of the engine bay up to the intake manifold. The air flow sensor is in the middle of the ducting.

Look in the good oil for tips on troubleshooting, must of your problems have been encountered be others and fixed. Pedro will recommend this.

Dont give up and ask lots of questions, even stupid ones.

James

**PhilipA** · 13th January 2011, 03:45 PM

Takes 2 or 3 attempts and about 30 or more secconds to start from cold. Takes about 10 secconds to start from warm, and you have to press the accelorator 25% to 50% to get it to start

This may be you.
You should wait until you hear a click after you turn to "on" before you turn the key to "start". This primes the fuel rail. Try waiting until the click (about 3 seconds) turn it off then back to On. This will give another prime. It should then start straight away. Do not use accelerator on an injected car AT ALL. If it fails to start after say 10-20 seconds.Put your foiot flat to the floor and do NOT pump the accelerator. This is a flood clearing mode and injectors will be turned off.

Once started, huge clouds of smoke puff forth from the exhaust.
This is beacuse you have flooded it.

It is consuming way too much fuel, 18 to 20l per 100km

That is pretty normal around town, in fact 18Lper100Km is good.

It is running rich, there is a constant stench of fuel from the exhaust.

Well this can be caused by combinations of things the best bet being a dud ECU water temperature sensor. They only cost about $30. BUT if it is getting 18-20 Lper100Km , then it cannot be that bad. Low compression engines all seem to have a sweet rich smell.

The timing may be a little out?
It stalls every now and again when manouvering at low speeds

**SPROVER** · 13th January 2011, 04:27 PM

Where abouts in Melbourne are you? Some members might be able to check a few things for you.

**Mattskii** · 13th January 2011, 05:06 PM

Thanks Philip, just tried your new starting method. Well, it was a lot better. No accelorator, almost caught after about 7 secconds, but then chugged to a stop, then started after about 5 secconds on the seccond attempt. Interesting.

I have a RAVE cd, came with the vehicle. I will endeavour to follow it;s instructions and learn some mechanics. I have always wanted to, so now is my chance.

I will monitor the fuel situation. I am curtrently running an injector cleaning fluid through to see if that does haelp anything in any way, once that is done I will fill the tank (All 90L of it! Phew!) and see how far it gets me.

Oh, thanks for the compliment, but I am very much Generation X lol. Long story, but never had any chance to learn about cars and stuff, but like I said, I will now.

I live in the northern burbs, preston/reservoir area. I am working the next few days, but will check out of the plugs are dirty on Monday, which is my next day off. If so, what is the reccomeded replacement? I will buy an appropriate socket for my socket set! Cool, first job on the car scheduled lol. Whats next?

Thanks you for the support and encouragement. If anyone needs any computer help, I was an expert in a previous life, seems a fair way to pay you all back for the help I am going to need

**Mattskii** · 13th January 2011, 08:40 PM

Originally Posted by jazzaD1

i would check for any air leaks in the intake ducting after the air flow meter, it may be cracked or something similar, letting unmetered air in, check for any loose or broken hoses also

since it has been running rich, the plugs are probably fouled, a fresh set of them is cheap enough and has been known to remedy some rough running and hard starting problems, in my experience anyway

unfortunately the 18-20l/100km fuel usage is about par for the course, maybe a bit better during long distance driving, but don't expect much better than this, there is a reason they are going cheap on the market

OK, checked it, no air leaks that I can see. It is a bit messy, but there are no holes or cracks visable.

There is a small pipe, about 8 mm in diameter coming from the side of the air box which appears not to be connected to anything. What should it be connected to? Is it important?

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