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Thread: It may be getting better!

  1. #1
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    It may be getting better!

    Hey everyone!

    Desided to do some more testing on the Disco (94 D1 V8) Now I have properly read through some article a couple of times.

    Fuel rail temp sender seems good, (2280 cold, 1009 hot)
    Coolant temo sender possible problems (2430 cold and 2820 hot) which seems to suggest it's stuffed. Funny - last time I tested it a couple of weeks ago I got the exact oposite - it seemed to be working just fine. Can these things have an iuntermittent fault? Would you reccomend replacing it any way?

    Decided I would test the injector baks from the ECU connector. Right bank is 4.3 which falls within range, Left bank is 4.7 which is .2 over. Could suggest an injector on the way out - which matches my expectations as the spark plug in possition 1 is always damp with fuel!

    Now there is some discussion as to whether resetting the ECU will do any good, but guess what? After putting it all back together again the thing started first time! It just doesn't do that first thing in the morning from stone cold. All this week it has been a pain, going 6 or 7 secconds before showing any signs of ignition, then chugging in to life only if I prod the accelorator.

    Today, got ignition pretty well immediatly I turned the key! Slowly chugged its way up to about 1100 - 1200 RPM, (so not exactly springing into life) and then stepped down to about 750 - 800 rpm over about 2 minutes time.

    Went for a drive, it seemed a lot moor 'alert' if you will, but that could just be me.

    Idling at the lights with a warm engine, when I take it out of gear it jumps from abour 550 RPM to about 750 RPM or just over and holds there.

    Got it home, let it cool for 2 minutes while I did the tests on the fule and coolant temps, then it started first time again in exactly the same manner described above. It has not been doing much of that lately either. Hold or cold this thing has been a bugger!

    I think we may be on to a winner.

    Will have to wait and see if it is the same next time I start it from stone cold, but I feel more possative than I have for a long time

    Questions arrising from todays fun and games:

    Should I replace the coolant temp sender?
    Should I replace some or all of the injectors?
    Does resetting the ECU really help after all?


  2. #2
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    PS - My vac advance arrived in the post today - will fit it when I get time to pop out and buy some star shaped wrenches, whatever they are called! lol

  3. #3
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    They're torx sockets/bits. Just make sure you buy ones with the hole in the centre (for what they call "tamperproof torx) saves you buying again when you come across them.

    I'd tend to get a new coolant temp sensor, get a second hand fuel sensor from the wreckers (test as for your current) and swap out before shelling for a new one. Even then if it's no different you have a cheap spare (unless you can test on site).

    ECU resets personally I think are LWIFOTI solutions. Like "learning" ecus, change the air filter and it'll learn that it's getting more air. Thats the job of the meters. Look at yankee fact sites (like lextreme/toyota) for examples.

  4. #4
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    Should I replace the coolant temp sender?
    Should I replace some or all of the injectors?
    Does resetting the ECU really help after all?
    YES

    Maybe, but economically its better to get a whole set of modern ones as AFAIR the Lucas ones are about $150 each.

    I tole you once I tole you twice. NO. Unless of course in between time you wiggled several wires testing sensor outputs and fixed the problem, which may be with the sensor plugs.

    The only change to this is if something is out of spec eg temp sender buggered on one start up but OK the next, ( say if the MAF wires are removed and it goes into limp home it will stay in limp home until it is started next , even if the wires are put back on) as the ECU will see the correct signal on start up . I have personally tested this aspect with a "colortune".

    But it is not a learning system, that say leans out like the old Holden ECUs which may not start when hot. The fix being to disconnect and reconnect the ECU fuse. Learning sytems will usually learn from the o2 sensor output which 14CUX doesn't have in Australia.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys!

    Just popped to the shops to purchase tomorrows feast! Didn't start too well, but I didn't double prime the fuel rail. I think fuel delivery is still an issue. When I turn on, wait for click, turn of, turn on, wait for click, start - it seems to start a bit quicker.


    I am going to have to repeat the tests on the temp senders - I am confusing myself trying to read this stupid multimeter (Or maybe it is me who is getting stupid in his old age!)

    When I set it to 2K I must multiply what is on the screen by 1000 right? so 0.570 becomes 570 = 60`C .....seems OK for the fuel temp?

    .339 becomes 339 = 80`C .....seems OK for the coolant temp right?

    So why when cold was I getting .228 on fuel and .243 on collant? Those reading would mean HOTTER, but the engine was cold!!!

    fuel went from .228 cold to 1.009 when hot.
    coolant went from .243 cold to .282 when hot.

    Either they are stuffed, or my brain is!!!! Will retest in the AM when cold again.

    Arghhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!

  6. #6
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    OK - ignore the whole temp sensor problems, just went out and checked, the numbers on the meter make sence. Don't know what happened this am, stresses cos I have not had a cigarette for 2 days I expect.

    So - both temp sensors are giving understandable readings.

    And.... why the heck did it start so easily this am when I have done nothing to fix it since 2 days ago when it would not start untill the 3rd attempt after 30 secconds of me swearing at it? Appart from test the sensors and unplug/replug the ECU.

    And this evening it is hard to start again!

    And if I start it with the coolant and fuel temp senders disconnected it makes no difference to how it starts!!!!????


  7. #7
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    If you PM me with your email address, I will send you the PDF manual on injection which gives the whole test procedure for the 14CUX .
    It is probably worthwhile for you to go through the whole thing rather than picking random tests.
    Regards Philip A

  8. #8
    pibby is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    Get your fuel pressure tested. Straight away you can eliminate or include the fuel pump / pressure regulator / injectors as part of your problem. speaking from experience here! I was able to borrow one as I could only find sets for around $350 which is way too much for a one off test. I had built up endless permutations of what may have been happening with fuel pressure but you whack the gauge on and you just know. It was only this morning I did this and found the pressure regulator was faulty.

  9. #9
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    Can someone please lend me a fuel pressure tester?

















    Please?

  10. #10
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    Is there simply a schrader valve on the fuel rail or does he need something inline?

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