Thread: No throttle response when cold onTDI300

Wonder if you've got a load of dodgy bio-diesel or some wax or vege oil into the system. It sounds similar to trying to cold start a vege oil burner that doesn't have a pre-heater.

Put an electric pump in 'er yesty, seems to be a WHOLE different truck, starts better, idles better, not sure if the performance is any different, but its definatly no worse.

Use a little Facet Style pump, the little gold box thingy, and put it in the line just after the Sedimenter, its not even that noisy!!!

Im yet to remove the mechanical lift pump from the system, as is its still connected and just along for the ride, one of those "ill get around to it" jobs... Have to tidy up the wiring, and "gajigga" it in with the oil press/glow plug so it doesnt run all the time.

It seems you may have found the problem but just FYI; I had a cold starting problem with my '97 300Tdi, turned out to be the "o"ring seal on the throttle shaft of the Injection pump, picked up the problem because my driveway has an uphill slope on it, if Disco was parked nose uphill it would turn over on the starter for a long time before kicking in on the first start of the day and after starting run erratically, down on power for a short time, just by chance I reversed the Disco up the sloped drive one evening for the o'nite park and, bingo, started first button next day and anytime thereafter that it was reverse in tail up, but park up nose first, no start or hard start.
Mine also has a Facet electric pump fitted but it is only set as a primer and is powered off the Glow plug circuit, so while the glow is on the elec pump runs then cuts out with the glow plugs, but that did not provide enough prime while the "o"ring was leaking and allowing the fuel lines to drain back to the tank, I still also run the mech lift pump, anyone with an old Tdi with mech injection should do the park rear uphill test if they are having trouble starting, this will confirm the IP throttle shaft leak. It is a simple job, only costs $1 for the shaft seal "o"ring and $4 for the pump body gasket from a Diesel service shop not a dealer, and about 15 minutes to change the bits if your a bit mech savvy,(you own a Landrover, ya better be!) believe me it made a world of difference.

Originally Posted by rick130

Supposedly the pump advances for cold starting and running, it senses water temp and pulls the advance lever on the pump.
I can't see any connections or water temp sensors on my engine or pump though.

The TDi is pretty doughy when cold too, they take a few minutes to warm and get percolating.

The Bosch books lists a heap of types for the VE, one plumbed into the coolant, there's a wax type thermostat and an electronic coolant sensor type. I doubt LR bothered to specify any type of cold start advance. When I used to start my 200Tdi in the snow it'd be banging away at 400rpm.

To that end I can't understand why the EDC engine is so maligned. At least it'd give some basic 90s stuff that every other diesel 4x4 had like aircon idle up, cold start idle up etc.

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

The Bosch books lists a heap of types for the VE, one plumbed into the coolant, there's a wax type thermostat and an electronic coolant sensor type. I doubt LR bothered to specify any type of cold start advance. When I used to start my 200Tdi in the snow it'd be banging away at 400rpm.

To that end I can't understand why the EDC engine is so maligned. At least it'd give some basic 90s stuff that every other diesel 4x4 had like aircon idle up, cold start idle up etc.

The cold start advance claim is straight out of the Defender MY97 manual

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

like aircon idle up,

AMEN!!!