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Thread: rear quarter panel removal and fitting info and pics

  1. #1
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    rear quarter panel removal and fitting info and pics

    Hi all.
    I have recently bought a 95 model V8 Disco for a very nice price due to having a cooked engine and a couple of dents.The 97 model 3.9 engine from my old Rangie classic will be put in the Disco and I need to replace a dented drivers side rear quarter panel and am thinking of replacing it with a good second hand one.The car is white so will look for one with good paint still on it as white is an easy color to match from another car.I have a pdf manual for the car but there are no pics and information on the rear quarter panel removal and fitting.Can someone please send info on this if they have it in their manual.I would really appreciate it.I have done 2 full custom rebuilds on 4WD's before and am not too daunted at the job but am just after any information I can get to help guide the job at hand.If anyone also has any tips on this if they have done it I would be happy to hear from you.
    Thanks
    Shane.

  2. #2
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    The Rave Cd section Named body has a lot of info on removing panels and how to re glue and pin them back., where to drill out rivets and the spot welds

  3. #3
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    Thanks.I think it is the rave manual I have on pdf,it is published by Rover technical communication but there is nothing on the rear quarter panel just the front guards and doors.I have looked at getting the rave cd but I have a Linux operating system and have been told it works only on Windows computers.If anyone can reply with the pages I need for this job I would really appreciate it.
    Cheers
    Shane

  4. #4
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    Hi, we will be removing 2 rear quarters from a D2 this weekend, basically the same as the Series1, although the rear trim is different. Will try to get some pics, but this is roughly the procedure:

    This is for a D2

    1 Remove the rear pockets and trim, or 3rd row seats if fitted. Lots of plugs and a few screws. Just pull on the trim gently and you will see where the plugs you missed are

    2 Remove the upper trim and the removable clip around the 2nd row seat belts

    3 Remove the outside covers behind the rear doors. There are three 7mm nuts which can be accessed from inside the car through some holes covered with black duct tape

    4 Remove the mud flap from the quarter.

    5 Undo the fuel lines (for the right quarter)

    6 Undo the phillips head screws at the very rear, inside the tailgate area and remove the rear tail light

    7 Undo all the 10mm screws, 1 vertical row at the rear, and a horizontal row top and bottom, one under the wheel arch under the car and one inside the car, below the screws in item 3 above.

    8 The Series1 has some pop rivets which have to be drilled out, usually 3 on the outside which were hidden by the plastic trim and 2 at the rear top amongst the top row of screws

    9 You may have to remove the plastic gutter trims on the outside but I find these usually break so try without first

    10 The panel is now only held by soft and hard adhesive.

    11 It pays to leave the car in the hot sun as most of the adhesive becomes quite soft. You will need a butter knife or similar and a very sharp packaging type knife and some thinners or similar and some tough gloves.

    12 Start on the lower outer edge of the panel, just behind the passenger door and pull the panel away from the car gently. Dip the butter knife into the solvent and work it up behind the panel, going through the sticky glue. You must do this until you get to the very top, across the center row and up the rear.

    13 With the sharp blade, cut through the sikaflex on the outer edge just below the roof channel.

    14 Once you have cut enough out you can again insert the butter knife and remove the seal along the top. You may also have to cut a small section of sikalfex at each top corner at the inside. The quarter should come off. Probably will take a few hours the first time.

    Erich

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Thanks Erich.
    Some pics would be great.Also I just downloaded the whole rave manual in pdf from landroverresource.com.It is the same workshop manual I have been using but mine has only the basic manual without all the extra manuals.Now I have the lot complete with the great body repair section.Any personal experience doing this job is still kindly appreciated as there are always little tricks that can be helpful.Also thought a heat gun might be useful for the adhesive and sealant.
    Cheers
    Shane

  6. #6
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mandala1111 View Post
    Thanks.I think it is the rave manual I have on pdf,it is published by Rover technical communication but there is nothing on the rear quarter panel just the front guards and doors.I have looked at getting the rave cd but I have a Linux operating system and have been told it works only on Windows computers.If anyone can reply with the pages I need for this job I would really appreciate it.
    Cheers
    Shane
    Shane I have RAVEs that I remastered to work both on Windows, Linux or Mac , it works on all pdf readers, and is not locked to the acrobat on the original rave. if you want one then PM me, $5 should cover postage in a mailer and the cost of a cd.
    I used to use them on Linux but now use on iMac, same process.
    here are some pics






  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mandala1111 View Post
    Thanks Erich.
    Some pics would be great.Also I just downloaded the whole rave manual in pdf from landroverresource.com.It is the same workshop manual I have been using but mine has only the basic manual without all the extra manuals.Now I have the lot complete with the great body repair section.Any personal experience doing this job is still kindly appreciated as there are always little tricks that can be helpful.Also thought a heat gun might be useful for the adhesive and sealant.
    Cheers
    Shane
    As Erich says, but on the D1 you will have to drill out some spot welds where the panel meets the body near the rear door lock, also the line of plastic along the top of the panel directly under the gutter rail will need a chisel and hammer to crack, a bit of a pain. In my Land Rover Workshop manual it shows the side panel not permanently attached to the panel with the Tailight in it, on both my D1's it was spot welded to the side panel, so you must take it off as one piece. Best way I found was to break all of the Mastic seals, pop rivets and spot welds near the rear door lock (as Erich said) then prise the back panel away from it's screw holes and then pull it back and the to the side, anyway that's how I did mine, good luck, Regards Frank.

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