Thread: 300Tdi engine repair

I think you should download a 300TDi engine rebuild manual off the Forum, in the Good Oil section I think, or in the "Sticky" section of Tech Chatter.
Sounds like you are up for a complete rebuild, new heads are available from UK at a reasonable price (do a search on here). If you have the tools and expertise you can farm out the machining work and do the assembly yourself. If not I would be searching the LR wreckers for a good running engine and Yes you do need the flywheel TDC indicator to hold crank from moving while doing timing belt, the manual tool is different to the auto one, Regards Frank.

Tim,
If you are thinking of going to the trouble of removing, replacing then lapping in new valves with new stems and springs (at 400kays id replace the valve springs) - you may find it more economic to just buy a complete head from Turner Engineering. Especially now the $ is killing the pound. Its worth checking anyways.

With regard to bigend shells, I get the impression your aiming for an in chassis buildup.
If your trying to keep it cheap, then mic the conrod journal, diameter ranges are in the 300tdi overhaul manual. Id be guessing you may need a mix of standard and 010 big end shells to get the correct tolerances on the journal. If you dont have access to a micrometer Id buy a set of standard shells and flexi gauge them in. At worst youll then have to buy a set of 010s and mix an match.

With regards to the oil in the expansion tank, it may indeed be the cooler. If your going to the trouble of a rebuild Id take a good look at the radiator. Maybe a recore or renew.
If the oil cooler is leaking and you cant stump for a new rad dont despair, just fit an air-oil transmission cooler in front of the rad.

If its a manual transmission, you can make a flywheel locator using a brass plumbing bung that threads into the housing, centre drill it with a 5mm bit (I need to doublecheck that diameter). Then you screw the brass bung into the case and slide the back end of the drill up into the timing slot, bit of tape to hold itn place and shes done!

Sounds like your onto it... they really are a simple engine. If only the head was steel and the timing case chain driven they would be almost an isuzu

S

Well if your engine is anything like mine the previous owner put the bloody timing mark on the flywheel in the wrong spot when they changed the clutch!!! Makes it 10times harder, but not impossible. There is still a timing mark on the crank anyway for TDC so I wouldnt worry to much about it.. pump timing is easy as is the camshaft. Just make sure that you check and double check the crush on you big ends... This is crucial. You dont want to be back here for a while!!!

Thanks very much for your replies gents. I quite enjoy taking motors apart so am prepared to use this repair as a lesson as this is my first LR and my first turbo diesel, though in my youth I did rebuild my non-turbo1941 4LW Gardner which still powers my home-built boat. I'm retired and can cope with a few days in the garage. It's an auto by the way and I've been advised that my big end shells are in fact still serviceable and that a copper colour is not a sign of imminent disintegration. So... I'll reassemble using what parts I can and keep an eye on things for the next few months. A habit I developed trying to keep an old Volvo v6 on the road. I did notice that on 2 valves the collets had just about stripped the ridges off the valves so it wouldn't have been long till a valve dropped. I usually like to get an old spare engine and overhaul (play would be a better word) at leisure. Incidentally I was also told that an undersize bearing shell would have the increment stamped on it, i.e. no stamp = standard.
Thanks again for your help
Tim

keep an eye on turners and paddocks in uk, you'll get parts cheaper and quicker than buying here in australia!!

I just bought a new head from these guys, very reasonable. Ordered on a Monday afternoon, it was on my doorstep that Thursday. Couldn't beleive it...

Originally Posted by roverrescue

[snip]
If its a manual transmission, you can make a flywheel locator using a brass plumbing bung that threads into the housing, centre drill it with a 5mm bit (I need to doublecheck that diameter). Then you screw the brass bung into the case and slide the back end of the drill up into the timing slot, bit of tape to hold itn place and shes done!

Sounds like your onto it... they really are a simple engine. If only the head was steel and the timing case chain driven they would be almost an isuzu

S

That's even simpler than what I did. I like it

I think I used a 6mm bolt and turned the end off to 5mm, and threaded a brass BSP plug to 6mm so it screws into place

Tim, I'd put a set of main and big end shells in it based on the condition of what has come out of it. Two sets of bearing shells will cost about $140. They can be replaced easily with sump off and engine in chassis. And replace the valves that need replacing, if you happy to do it that way. It'll be a lot cheaper.

Pete