D1 electric window ecu Fixed

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Originally Posted by shining

Any other clues? I have no obvious dry joints and no obvious failed components. I checked the diodes with a multimeter and they are operating normally.
My symptoms were longer lag time from starting the car to operation of rear window switches and gradually worsening until no operation of rear windows. (Fronts have always been fine) The picture from the link is slightly different to mine in that I have only 3 relays rather than the five in the post. PCB seems the same in all other respects.

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I have exactly the same symptoms will have to open up the ecu and see what has failed or burnt out, did you fix yours yet ?

Disco1 1994 V8i Auto

My ecu is slightly different (AY2D) to the OP's (AY2E) not sure if they are compatiable (see pics).

Removing it was exactly as OP stated but he obviously under stated that bottom clip, it was harder to remove than an undertaker at a nursing home.

Will take it to the auto electrician tomorrow, from what I can see there is 1 cracked solder join and not sure if it is relevant or not but there are
2 Diodes that are not related where the solder over runs onto the other (see pics).

If it still dose'nt work I can get a reco replacement from my wreckers for $75 , he keeps the old one to recondition.

Only have to plug it in to see if it works seeing as I have done the hard work so I will let you's know how it goes

Regards
Rich

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Originally Posted by OlliesLRover

My ecu is slightly different (AY2D) to the OP's (AY2E) not sure if they are compatiable (see pics).

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LR used different board designs throughout the various model years ... but they all do the same basic function .... I'm fairly certain you can install a different model D1 board and it will "plug up n function" OK

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Originally Posted by OlliesLRover

it was harder to remove than an undertaker at a nursing home.

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..... :twisted:

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Originally Posted by OlliesLRover

there is 1 cracked solder join

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Just solder it up and see how it goes .... :D


There are a few Tutorials of repairs to these boards floating around the WW.Web ... The main purpose of my post was to add to the list of possible fixes, with the bonus of how to solve the problem of the burnt diodes that occurred on my board.

Cheers
Mike

Hi Rich.
My PCB was the same model as yours. I couldn't fix mine I tried re-soldering and replaced a couple of diodes as well but couldn't identify the faulty component. but I bought a replacement and that worked.

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Originally Posted by shining

Hi Rich.
My PCB was the same model as yours. I couldn't fix mine I tried re-soldering and replaced a couple of diodes as well but couldn't identify the faulty component. but I bought a replacement and that worked.

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Grrrrrrr I still have nightmares about mine, I took it to the auto elect and he soldered the dry joint, I pluged it in and away it went $20, I just left it hanging down till I got home as I couldn't get that bloody plug out again even after I had previously broken the locking lugs off.

When I got home I still couldn't get the plug off so I decided to fit it with it on - wrong move, I touched the board on a bit of metal and zap board fried.

So I still ended up having to go to the wreckers and get a second hand one $75, so I was very pfssed off with myself and now that you have reminded me of it I will probably sulk for the next week or so:mad:.

ps; And if I had known/realised that the bloody windows (rear) only opened half way anyhow they could have stayed shut, as the dog still refuses to sit in the back as he can't get his big boof head far enough out that small gap to snaffle any stray kid that gets to close Grrrrrrrrrrr.

Thank you,Thank you,Thank you for this post. My children Thank you as well as they havent been able to wind the windows for years!