97 Disco has blown 6 Ignition Modules, Help

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

The Bosch 024 module was fitted to carburettor cars from all the major manufacturers (GM, Ford, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Toyota) in Australia between 1979 and 1987 approximately. I believe this was one way to increase local content and Bosch had a suitable HEI distributor design to go around. Some Aust models may have been exported to South Africa, so possibly you could find some there.

There may be other compatible modules out there but the 024 requires no special connector plugs to use, so has been my choice.

You may also be able to find some Chev ignition modules/amps, used on their coil-in-cap distributors. I have used 024 modules to repair these in the past, so they are very similar in function.

Just found some in the US:

HEI DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION CONTROL MODULE 4 PIN GM CHEVY | eBay

HEI DISTRIBUTER IGNITION CONTROL MODULE 4 PIN GM CHEVY | eBay

Cheers

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Now we may be on to something. I have the HEI Distributor with coil in ti from an 84 Pontiac Gran Prix. I may actualy have the module too. That would be a stroke of good luck for a change
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...230244932&An=0

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...305956961&An=0

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
I will assume that the G is the Ground/earth. The W; 3; 8 ?

Would this module or the Bosch work with the Coil that we have (if it's an original Lucas or direct replacement, I believe the whole mess is a series of mismatched coils to modules/amps).

I will try to find my parts tonight and see if my wife threw it out or not :-)

Thanks guys/mates!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Halsie

Now we may be on to something. I have the HEI Distributor with coil in ti from an 84 Pontiac Gran Prix. I may actualy have the module too. That would be a stroke of good luck for a change
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...230244932&An=0

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...305956961&An=0

https://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/51089.jpg
I will assume that the G is the Ground/earth. The W; 3; 8 ?

Would this module or the Bosch work with the Coil that we have (if it's an original Lucas or direct replacement, I believe the whole mess is a series of mismatched coils to modules/amps).

I will try to find my parts tonight and see if my wife threw it out or not :-)

Thanks guys/mates!

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Ground is through the lower mounting screw. W and G are from the pick-up coil and probably refer to factory wire colours. Note they have the same small/big connectors as the Bosch. They may be the same, but it's easy to swap the pickup connectors if the firing point is all wrong, as per my Bosch upgrade thread. B and C refer to battery(+) and coil (-) I believe. Instructions should be available on the magic wwweb I imagine. Ask a supplier about compatible HEI coils in the US.

BTW a word of warning. I suspect cheapie chev modules may suffer from Lucas disease too. The last Chev HEI distributor I replaced the module on had been fitted with 2 aftermarket modules in 3 months. So seek genuine or reputable modules if you can.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

Ground is through the lower mounting screw. W and G are from the pick-up coil and probably refer to factory wire colours. Note they have the same small/big connector as the Bosch. They may be the same, but it's easy to swap the pickup connectors if the firing point is all wrong, as per my Bosch upgrade post. B and C refer to battery(+) and coil (-) I believe. Instructions should be available on the magic wwweb I imagine. Ask a supplier about compatible HEI coils in the US.

BTW a word of warning. I suspect cheapie chev modules may suffer from Lucas disease too. The last Chev HEI distributor I replaced the module on had been fitted with 2 aftermarket modules in 3 months. So seek genuine or reputable modules if you can.

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I just checked my dissy (84 GM HEI) and the module/amp has 7 terminals and appears to be run off the ECU.

I will get to a parts store this week (travelling the next 2 days) and see who manufacture the ones they have and also check a wrecking yard or 2.

Looking at you picture where you made 3.2 mm crimp connectors. Is the amp removable without removing the dissy? I want to build the unit here and take it with me. (You mention your Bosch update post, is that under the Original post as a replyin Feb?)

My dude/mate in Zimbabwe suspicions the ECU is faulty. From what I am seeing here, the Bosch conversion doesn't appear to rely on the ECU in out 97 or 98 Disco. IS that correct or does the ECU supply a signal? and do you know a source for a Jap Disco ECU? (I'll be there 6 weeks and then back to the US). I am bringing a faulty alternator back for a local rebuild by a fellow I know that builds bullet proof ones.

You are giving confidence to go for it! The nervousness is in that we may have to travel to Botswana or further to South Africa to get parts there.

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Halsie

I just checked my dissy (84 GM HEI) and the module/amp has 7 terminals and appears to be run off the ECU.

I will get to a parts store this week (travelling the next 2 days) and see who manufacture the ones they have and also check a wrecking yard or 2.

Looking at you picture where you made 3.2 mm crimp connectors. Is the amp removable without removing the dissy? I want to build the unit here and take it with me. (You mention your Bosch update post, is that under the Original post as a replyin Feb?)

My dude/mate in Zimbabwe suspicions the ECU is faulty. From what I am seeing here, the Bosch conversion doesn't appear to rely on the ECU in out 97 or 98 Disco. IS that correct or does the ECU supply a signal? and do you know a source for a Jap Disco ECU? (I'll be there 6 weeks and then back to the US). I am bringing a faulty alternator back for a local rebuild by a fellow I know that builds bullet proof ones.

You are giving confidence to go for it! The nervousness is in that we may have to travel to Botswana or further to South Africa to get parts there.

Thanks

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The Disco ECU takes the signal from the coil, not the other way around. The 97/98 Disco has a harness from the dissy to the amp/coil set mounted next to the radiator. You cut the red and blue wires off the old amp plug, terminate them with crimp connectors, fit them to the new amp/module. Earth the shield connector to a screw on the new module.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


The connections from the original vehicle wiring go back on to the coil you choose, as do the B and C wires from the module. I have no information on whether the original coil will run on the new amp, I simply haven't tried. Don't like to mess around when I have a reliable set-up.

The dissy connecting harness remains unmodified, only the short piece between the plug and amp. You will need to obtain suitable screws and a thread tap to modify the original heat sink that the blown amp is screwed to. Oh, and make sure you have replacement heat-sinking paste available. It is VERY important. It should be packed with every new module or available from parts shops or electronics stores. It is sometimes used for mounting power transistors.

Post, sorry I meant thread, http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...sch-024-a.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Halsie

My dude/mate in Zimbabwe

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Couple of Q's

Where exactly have you been buying these 6 modules ... and were they genuine LUCUS?

Is your mechanic putting / using / Installing the heat sink paste to the back of the module, when bolting it back up to the heatsink?

Exactly which coil are you using?



IMHO ... I doubt the ECU theory ....

Cheers
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

The Disco ECU takes the signal from the coil, not the other way around. The 97/98 Disco has a harness from the dissy to the amp/coil set mounted next to the radiator. You cut the red and blue wires off the old amp plug, terminate them with crimp connectors, fit them to the new amp/module. Earth the shield connector to a screw on the new module.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


The connections from the original vehicle wiring go back on to the coil you choose, as do the B and C wires from the module. I have no information on whether the original coil will run on the new amp, I simply haven't tried. Don't like to mess around when I have a reliable set-up.

The dissy connecting harness remains unmodified, only the short piece between the plug and amp. You will need to obtain suitable screws and a thread tap to modify the original heat sink that the blown amp is screwed to. Oh, and make sure you have replacement heat-sinking paste available. It is VERY important. It should be packed with every new module or available from parts shops or electronics stores. It is sometimes used for mounting power transistors.

Post, sorry I meant thread, http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...sch-024-a.html

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Ok I am going to re-check with ZIm and clarify that the current module is not attached to the dissy. I was under the impression that is was on the dissy from their information to me.

I found some engine ECU's at Roverland, so hopefully we won't need one, pricey.

Well midnight here, so I'll be back online Wednesday from Sunny Florida.

Thanks Mate! (is it ok for a Yank to call you Mate?)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Couple of Q's

Where exactly have you been buying these 6 modules ... and were they genuine LUCUS?

Is your mechanic putting / using / Installing the heat sink paste to the back of the module, when bolting it back up to the heatsink?

Exactly which coil are you using?



IMHO ... I doubt the ECU theory ....

Cheers
Mike

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From what I know, the Land Rover Dealer has replace 2 or 3, not sure about the others. As for the paste, I'll ask that too. Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Halsie

From what I know, the Land Rover Dealer has replace 2 or 3, not sure about the others. As for the paste, I'll ask that too. Thanks

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Information from Zimbabwe is slow coming.

The woed I got today is that "they (Dealer was involved in a couple)" say they were using "inferor modules/amps" to which I would reply "duhh". They are ordering one for a Toyota something. More as I learn more.

Hi again:

Finally recived the answers to my questions from Zimbabwe.

The Coil and module/amp are near the radiator as bee utey said they were.
The replacements (some by the dealer) were "inferior" and they have ordered a Toyota Module;

I plan on persuing the GM module that appears to match the Bosch (see bprevious posts).

From these diagrams I think the following is true: (Bosch to GM)
3=G
7=W
15=B
16=C
Correct?

If this is the same as the Bosch, is the stock coil compatible?
Or if not, I read the post re: HEC and MEC and do not see that on any of the Coils here. Also something about not being a Hall Effect Dissy but a variable reluctor. Not real sure what to tell the parts guy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/05/896.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/05/897.jpg
I recall reading something regarding a ground/earth wire from the grounding lug to the dissy?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/05/898.jpg

Also are the Dissy connections color coded? or looking at the diddy which terminal goes to the left and which to the right. I am contemplating putting bullet connectors in line so that I can build modules in the states and make installing them easier (will do both Discos in the October if this works with the GM)


Thanks for your help, we leave in 2 weeks.
Halsie

Just try the GM module on the OEM Rover coil. One forumite here recently reported his OEM coil running well on the #024 module for at least the last month.

Your wiring looks about right. On the Bosch 024 module the original pick-up wire is blue to #3, red to #7. Then there is the earth shield (black) that goes to a mounting screw on the module, as per pics in my post below. The simplest method I think is just to install the GM module to the heatsink that the original Lucas amp sat on. You will need a short 2 core patch cable from the GM amp to the coil, insulated female spade connectors at one end and 5mm ring terminals at the other end for the coil. You will need 4mm bolts and nuts long enough to secure the new module to the heatsink, and a drill bit for the heatsink. And two crimp terminals for the #G and #W connections.

I recently purchased a GM module off ebay which I might test on an OEM coil for something to do. Something to do in my spare time, I guess.:cool: